ReviewA Well-Oiled Machine: Presenting The Ressence Type 3 Collection
The Ressence Type 3—one of the brand’s most distinct lines now features an oil-filled timekeeper in a refreshing new ‘eucalyptus green’ hue—a much-needed addition to the existing monochrome palette
May We Recommend
Ressence clearly have a ‘type’ when it comes to timepieces. For those familiar with the works of the young independent watchmaker, would know that they specialise in developing ‘hand-less’ watches—an innovative way of telling time, thanks to their patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). Here, instead of using traditional hands, the ROCS employs rotating discs with graphical indications—giving the appearance that the dial itself is in motion; imparting an almost hypnotic effect. Established in 2010, Ressence have six collections in their portfolio, which have a militaristic nomenclature, and highlight the functional element of these watches. Among them, the Type 3 collection boasts some interesting watches that have a striking sporty appeal highlighted through their signature ‘pebble’ shaped case. While initially these timepieces were available in white or black dials, the brand introduced a refreshing ‘eucalyptus green’ hue, last year, which provides an apt canvas for the vibrant coloured inserts to stand out on the watch face.
Launched in 2013, the Type 3 is the first ever oil-filled mechanical watch, which doesn’t compromise on the legibility and was even awarded the ‘Horological Revelation’ Prize at that year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The 44mm watch crafted in grade-5 titanium allows one to view the time from any angle, without any refraction or distortion, and appears smooth, thanks to the sapphire crystal found on both the front and the back. The crown-free design, further accentuates the wearability of this watch, making it a truly left- or right-handed timepiece. Here are more details.
Ressence Type 3 Dial: The Cool Tones Of Eucalyptus Green
All Ressence watches have dials that are unique and stand out for their distinct time-telling mechanism. The watches are assembled and crafted with extreme care by highly skilled people and the dial designs are engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova of the highest quality, irrespective of the dial hue. And just because the watches have a unique display doesn’t mean that they compromise on the legibility in different lighting conditions; this is where the luminosity comes into play. Also, adding oil (which commenced with the Type 3 series) to the upper chamber of the watch ensures crystal-clear readability of time on the dial. And the green soothing hue of the dial makes a cool statement on the wrist.
“It wouldn’t be Ressence’s year of colour without introducing a new shade to the Type 3 core range”, stated Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, during the launch last year. “This new Eucalyptus Green Type 3 is truly reminiscent of a precious mineral. Holding and wearing a Ressence has never been more akin to experiencing the serene feel of a polished stone’s smooth surface,” he added.
Besides merely experimenting with this new shade of green, this Type 3 iteration also features new details. Here, the hour disc has been graphically simplified with indexes every two hours. The weekend days and oil temperature indications have been presented in new pastel tones, which complement the cool green hue of the watch face.
The Special Oil-Filled System Of The Ressence Type 3
By now we know that the oil-filled mechanism holds a special place in the Ressence universe. And it began with the Type 3 collection—a perfect result of applied physics. One would think that using oil could lead to visibility issues but Ressence have tackled this pretty well and executed it in a manner that cancels out the distortion caused by the refraction of light—ensuring exceptional readability from any angle. According to the brand literature, ‘the explanation lies in its upper chamber, which is flooded with 3.75 ml of oil, creating a magnified projection effect that gives the illusion of information displayed directly on the glass. As a result of this revolutionary technology, the Ressence Type 3 provides a crystal-clear display that remains easy to read, regardless of the lighting conditions, even in the dark.’
However, oil is sensitive to temperature variations, and to compensate for the expansion or contraction under varying thermal conditions, the independent brand have developed an innovative and state-of-the-art ‘bellow system’. This is a ‘self-equilibrating pressure-balance system that maintains an even pressure and prevents any negative impact on performance’, and is represented by a temperature gauge displayed on the dial.
The oil also helps in enhancing the mechanical efficiency as all parts of the patented ROCS 3.5 module are constantly lubricated, resulting in low friction of the movement. This also helps in reducing the relative weight of the four ball bearings, which in turn diminish the effort the movement has to provide. This automatic movement fitted with 47 jewels and 44 gears uses the caseback winding for setting day, date, and time functions, while beating at a frequency of 28,800vph to supply an energy reserve of at least 36 hours.