ReviewThe Rolex Perpetual 1908 Shines The Spotlight On The Timeless Elegance Of Traditional Watchmaking Art
The Rolex 1908 is the first member of the fairly new Perpetual collection—launched in 2023. Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor, this elegant timepiece brings back the vintage dress watch aesthetic, imbued with the brand’s signature horological style and heritage
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At a time when ‘quiet luxury’ has become one of the staples of the luxury goods business, it comes as no surprise that the haute horlogerie industry, too, is embracing this with vigour. Brands are revisiting their roots to dole out vintage-inspired offerings that are a tribute to traditional craftsmanship and know-how—best represented by the classic dress watch. The Rolex 1908 timepiece is a befitting example as it checks all the boxes and has created quite the buzz since its launch in 2023—introduced under the spanking new Perpetual collection as the brand decided to close the Cellini chapter. The two 39mm references were offered in cases crafted from 18-carat yellow or white gold, with dial options in hues of either matte black or matte white. And this year, Rolex have continued building up on the Perpetual collection with the addition of an exquisite model in platinum, which is presented on a matte brown or black leather strap, fitted with a dual-folding clasp—a fine specimen of cutting-edge classicism. Let’s take a closer look at the defining elements of this watch.
Rolex Perpetual 1908: Where Classic Meets Contemporary Style
The 1908 stands out for its design and character, which is steeped in classicism. This elegant timekeeper is named after the year 1908—when Hans Wilsdorf came up with the official name ‘Rolex’ and registered the brand in Switzerland. It is inspired by one of the first Rolex watches, equipped with a Perpetual rotor and is a tribute to the brand’s longstanding principles of traditional fine watchmaking and aesthetic heritage. It features a clean and clutter-free dial with Arabic numerals at three, nine, and 12 o’clock, interspersed with faceted index hour markers. The vintage appeal is further enhanced by the observatory-style hour hand also popularly known as ‘Breguet’ style, while the minute hand is sword shaped. There is a small seconds counter at six o’clock, above which lies the inscription ‘Superlative Chronometer’, which attests to the watch’s performance.
The latest platinum version showcases an ice-blue dial with a rice-grain guilloche motif and a minute track with a crimped pattern. This simplicity of the display shines the spotlight on the brand’s legacy of crafting timeless timekeepers. Its refined sleek case measuring 39mm in platinum is testimony to Rolex’s commitment to manufacturing the finest watches, embodying the principles of traditional horological practices.
The slim profile showcases clean lines where the curve of the lugs is highlighted, thanks to a gentle chamfering finish given on their top edges. The bezel is divided in two parts—the lower one is embellished with elegant fluting and the upper part is domed. On turning the watch over, one can view the movement through an exhibition caseback and despite this, the case offers a water resistance of up to 50m.
The Driving Force Behind 1908—Calibre 7140
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is powered by the calibre 7140—an automatic movement, developed entirely and manufactured by the brand. Beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, it supplies the watch with a power reserve of at least 66 hours. It is equipped with the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with reliability, and is also resistant to strong magnetic fields. It also features the patented Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which is not only resistant to strong magnetic fields but offers greater stability when it comes to temperature variations and resistance to shocks. The oscillator has a balance wheel with variable inertia, which is regulated via gold Microstella nuts and is fixed on patented Paraflex shock absorbers. The Perpetual rotor ensures continuous winding of the mainspring due to the movements of the wrist, thereby ensuring a continuous energy supply. Here, the oscillating weight is skeletonised and crafted in yellow gold, and is visible for one to admire through the transparent caseback along with the embellished bridges.
And just like all Rolex offerings, the 1908 also comes with a Superlative Chronometer certification. According to the brand, ‘this exclusive designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee’.
This means that every watch that is officially COSC-certified is tested again by Rolex to ensure it meets the criteria of the Superlative Chronometer certification, which stands at −2/+2 seconds per day. This acceptable rate of deviation is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC to ensure optimum performance and precision.
An All-Time Classic—The Leather Strap
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is presented on an alligator leather strap—a fine choice for a classical timekeeper. Available in hues of matte black or matte brown, this refined strap is individually tailored for the new watch, and features a green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching. This is secured to the wrist, thanks to the Dualclasp—a patented double-folding clasp—developed by Rolex. Crafted in platinum to match the case material, the design and shape ensure that the watch is always centred and offers maximum comfort while strapped on to the wrist.
