SpotlightThe Finest New Men’s Watches Launched At SIHH 2019
Taking forward signature complications, with innovative new mechanisms, edgy as well as classical styles, here are some of the most impressive new watches for men unveiled earlier this month at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2019
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An annual trade fair, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is the first major watch event of the year, which sets the tone for what’s to come in watchmaking for the rest of the year. With only 35 brands exhibiting their annual novelties, it is quite an exclusive affair. Here are some of the best new watches showcased by some of the exhibitors.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Cadran Bleu
After introducing their first in-house movement in the 2018 Baumatic series, Baume & Mercier took their watchmaking a step further this year with an updated version of the calibre, set behind a gorgeous blue gradient dial. The automatic calibre offering a five-day power reserve is a COSC-certified chronometer. Visible through the transparent back of the 40mm steel case is the oscillating mass made of steel-toned tungsten and decorated with Geneva stripes. The black grained background on the date disc, seen through the aperture at three o’clock, complements the black leather strap, which is easily interchangeable.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute WW.TC
Another stunning timepiece with a blue dial featuring a sunburst finish, this watch from Girard-Perregaux is from the new Laureato Absolute series in black PVD-treated titanium cases, sized at 44mm, and water resistant to 300m. This piece is equipped with the brand’s signature world timer, called the WW.TC, also featuring a day-night indicator. Powered by an automatic movement, offering a 46-hour power reserve, the imposing watch is fitted with a black rubber strap and blue stitching that complements the dial.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon
A watch manufacturer known for their minimal look with maximum substance, H. Moser has introduced the ‘Blue Lagoon’ dial in an Endeavour Concept watch, devoid of everything on the dial except for the timekeeping hands. This brings out the beauty of the brand’s signature fumé dial, seen here in a captivating aqua hue that goes darker towards the edges. Set in the 18-karat red gold case is an automatic movement that guarantees three days of power when fully wound. You can see it through the transparent caseback. The oscillating mass is also made of 18-karat red gold as is the pin buckle on the leather strap of this 50-piece limited edition watch.
Tentative availability: After April 2019
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire
This year, IWC was all about the Pilot’s Watch collection, with terrific new editions, including a Spitfire Timezoner and a perpetual calendar as well. This one here is an automatic chronograph version, with a 46-hour automatic movement set in a 41mm case. Made of bronze, the 60m water-resistant case will patinate, and as each piece produced ages differently in different conditions of humidity, it will become quite unique in appearance over time. This will only enhance the vintage look of the watch, continuing to complement the green dial featuring 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters at 12 and nine, and small seconds and a day-date indicator at six and three o’clock respectively.
Tentative availability: October 2019
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel
A classical beauty that is extremely functional as well, this timepiece is from the new Master Ultra Thin range of watches with deep blue enamel dials, gorgeously decorated with a guilloche motif. A limited edition of 100 pieces, this watch features a perpetual calendar—the complication that doesn’t need adjustment through changing durations of months or through leap years—and a moon phase display. Equipped with the 868A/2 automatic calibre that offers a significant 70-hour power reserve, the elegant, 39mm white gold case is water resistant to 50m and features a transparent caseback.
Tentative availability: May 2019
Panerai Submersible EcoTitanium Mike Horn Edition 47mm
An explorer and adventurer, Mike Horn has been a friend of Panerai for over 15 years, with the brand supporting his expeditions to extreme parts of the globe, including the North Pole. Panerai has even created special edition watches to help him through the challenging conditions he experiences. One cause that Horn holds very dear is that of the environment, as he does all he can to spread awareness about protecting our planet, which he calls his ‘playground’. This new edition Submersible is inspired by Mike Horn and his dedication to the environment. Made of recycled scraps of Titanium, the 47mm case has a unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel and is water resistant to 300m. Housed in this ‘EcoTitanium’ case is an automatic calibre. The highlight of the watch though is the strap, which is made from recycled plastic bottles. Exemplifying sustainability, this is certainly an inspiring timepiece.
Tentative availability: After July 2019
Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Titanium
The star of Parmigiani’s showcase at SIHH 2019 was the new sporty Kalpagraphe Chronomètre in titanium. The open-worked display includes chronograph counters as well as a wide date window at 12 o’clock. The movement beating within is a certified chronometer automatic integrated chronograph calibre, which includes a vertical clutch on the column wheel for enhanced stop-watch accuracy. It can hold power for 65 hours, thanks to the black PVD-treated platinum rotor, and can be admired through the transparent caseback. The signature tonneau-shaped Kalpa case measures 48.2mm by 40.4mm and is water resistant to 30m. The black rubber strap is the finishing touch to this sporty Kalpa.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán
‘Powered by raging mechanics’ and inspired by the chiselled look of the Lamborghini Huracán supercars, this new Excalibur watch displays its RD630 automatic calibre in all its skeletonised glory. With a balance wheel tilted at a 12-degree angle, this watch is all about design informing the finesse in mechanical watchmaking technology. The bridges of the exposed movement are clearly inspired by the façade of the Lamborghini automobile, while the date seen at six o’clock has elements of the numerals on Lamborghini speedometers. Complementing the rubber strap with its grey Alcantara® inlay and a titanium buckle is the rugged case in titanium with Roger Dubuis’ signature three lugs on either side. Titanium certainly seems to be the metal of the year.
Tentative availability: After June 2019
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Titanium
This year, Ulysse Nardin is all about the X-factor, with a high-tech mechanical edge in watchmaking presented in daring, bold designs, as seen here in the latest edition of their revolutionary Freak watch. The Freak X is the first Freak with a conventional crown on its 43mm titanium case, featuring a blue PVD finish on its bezel to match its dial. And that’s where all the action is seen, as the signature Freak flying carousel movement spins, rotating around its own axis. This calibre UN-230 comes with Ulysse Nardin’s very own silicium balance wheel and self-winds, offering up to 72 hours of power. The most wearable Freak yet, this watch invites more people to take on the ‘X’ edge.
Tentative availability: After April 2019
Off-Site Showcase
A few brands were present in Geneva during SIHH, showcasing some of their new collections in off-site setups, such as the LVMH Group’s Geneva Days. We got a chance to see some of their watches as well.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium White
Last year, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Unico in a smaller 42mm case size incorporating four patents. This year, they’ve expanded the pool of Big Bang Unico watches with new editions in white. While you could also choose other versions paved with diamonds, this one is a plain titanium piece, featuring an open-worked display, with bridges to complement the largely white exterior, including the rubber strap and its titanium deployant buckle. While the case is water resistant to 100m, the automatic chronograph movement inside offers a 72-hour power reserve.
Tentative availability: To be determined after Baselworld 2019 (March 21 to 26)
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Mercury 44mm
This new edition of the Aikon has a quirky and interesting feature. Like the fluid property of the namesake metal, the hands of this watch spin around to land at 12 o’clock when moved to be upside down. This is possible due to a weight lever system. When you hold the watch back in a position that will enable you to read the time on your wrist, the hands fling back to show you the current time. This is powered by an in-house developed calibre, ML225, and this time memory module on the automatic movement is patented. Offering a 38-hour power reserve, it’s set in a 44mm steel case, with the faceted look that the Aikon series is known for. The strap is easily interchangeable between leather and steel.
Tentative availability: October 2019
Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Ruthenium
The Grand Prix d‘Horlogerie de Genève-winning Tangente Update watch of 2018 is being released this year with a darker dial that is elegantly refined with ruthenium. The stellar date display—through apertures around the edge of the dial that reveal red markers framing the date—is very much a part of this edition as well. And as in the case of its predecessor, the date on this one can be adjusted forward and backward as well, owing to the DUW 6101 movement beating within the 41mm steel case, water resistant to 50m.
Tentative availability: May 2019
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph
At Geneva Days, TAG Heuer offered a first look at their latest new development, the Nanograph. While the watch continues the impressive Heuer 02T series, its biggest achievement is that the hairspring used in this edition of the Heuer 02T automatic calibre is made of a carbon composite—a first in watchmaking. A step up from metallic and even silicon hairsprings, this carbon composite kills any chance of magnetism, while it’s virtually unresponsive even to gravity and shock. It offers this extreme durability, despite being extremely lightweight. The 45mm case in black PVD-treated titanium with carbon lugs enhances the lightness of the watch. The hexagonal pattern seen in various elements of this watch’s design is a reference to the nanoscopic (one-millionth of 1mm) hexagonal pattern that can be found on the carbon-composite material that the hairspring is made of.
Tentative availability: To be determined after Baselworld 2019 (March 21 to 26)
Click here to read about the finest new watches for ladies unveiled at SIHH 2019
Shop The Story
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Baume & Mercier Clifton
MOA10467
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Girard-Perregaux Laureato
81065-21-491-FH6A
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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour
1200-0404
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IWC Pilot’s Watches
IW387902
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master
Q13035E1
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Panerai Submersible
PAM00984
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Parmigiani Kalpa
PFC193-3040200-XO1442
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Roger Dubuis Excalibur
RDDBEX0748
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Ulysse Nardin Freak
2303-270/03
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Maurice Lacroix Aikon
AI6088-SS002-030-1
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Nomos Glashutte Tangente
181
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TAG Heuer Carrera
CAR5A8K.FT6172
