SpotlightWatches And Wonders 2023: Introducing Speake-Marin’s New Academic And Ripples Timepieces
A British master watchmaker's passion for "belle horlogerie" shines through in Speake-Marin's new timekeepers, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023
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Speake-Marin, an independent Swiss brand, was established in 2002 by a British master watchmaker with a passion for creating “belle horlogerie” or beautiful timepieces. Though they initially crafted custom watches for private collectors, they’ve since expanded their production while maintaining their exclusive appeal. Their latest offerings, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, combine contemporary design and creativity to bring new models to the market.
The Academic Timepieces
Speake-Marin’s new Academic watches from their One & Two Collection draw inspiration from the ancient Chinese philosophy of yin and yang, where opposing forces complement each other in perfect harmony. The collection features two variations—the Academic Black Tie and the Academic White—both available in two different sizes of 38mm and 42mm.
The Academic Black Tie features a lustrous black lacquer dial that exudes elegance. Its applied Roman numeral hour markers at 12, three, six, and nine o’clock are covered in Super-LumiNova, providing easy readability even in low light conditions. The small second counter, adorned with a grey chapter ring, is located between one and two o’clock, and the flange has markings on the grey minutes track in orange. The hands are plated in rhodium, adding to the watch’s luxurious appeal. The watch sits comfortably on a leather strap, completing its polished look.
On the other hand, the Academic White watch is a celebration of purity and minimalism. Its white lacquer dial is a sight to behold, displaying Roman numeral hour markers at 12, three, six, and nine o’clock, coated with Super-LumiNova for enhanced visibility.
Both watches are equipped with the automatic Calibre SMA03, featuring a fully-integrated micro-rotor that ensures precise and reliable timekeeping. The movement is encased in grade-5 titanium, making it durable and long lasting, while the large, fluted crown adds a touch of vintage charm.
The Ripples Watches
The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans watch boasts a sophisticated design with a relaxed feel, featuring blue jean hues and a sports watch aesthetic. The Ripples dial is the highlight of the timepiece, appearing initially as a simple Côtes de Genève finish, but upon closer examination, revealing its three-dimensional peaks and valleys that create a brushed finish capable of smoothly transitioning between pastel tones and dark shadows. The resulting effect is elegant, refined, and easy on the eyes, elevating the timepiece’s aesthetic beyond the casual look of denim jeans.
The watch’s attention to detail doesn’t stop at the dial. The applied hour markers, Poires Stuart hands, and small seconds subdial demonstrate expert finishing. The dots of different diameters around the perimeter of the dial add a touch of playfulness while maintaining legibility. And the ‘La City’ case is a work of art, with innovative facets that are both intricate and approachable, creating a sense of perfection that is hard to find.
The watch is powered by Speake-Marin’s Calibre SMA03-T movement, which is on full display through the sapphire display caseback. The large plates are decorated with Côtes de Genève, and the gaps between them are polished to a smooth finish. But the true standout is the micro-rotor, which automatically winds the watch and provides a 52-hour power reserve.
The brand has also introduced a Ripples Date model that takes the collection to new heights, showcasing a horizontal waved dial in a sleek black that is encased in a robust 40.3mm stainless steel ‘La City’ case and matching bracelet. However, what sets this watch apart is the addition of a date window at six o’clock, seamlessly integrated into the design to ensure perfect visual balance. The window features specially designed numerals by Stéphane Lacroix, elongated and futuristic in style, and white against the black background for easy reading.