ReviewGlobetrotting And Grandeur: Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Watches

In 2019, Speake-Marin unveiled their One&Two Openworked Dual Time at the prestigious SIHH fair (now known as Watches and Wonders Geneva). Offered in two case sizes of 38mm and 42mm, this exquisite red gold timepiece drew inspiration from the brand’s acclaimed One&Two Openworked time-only version, elevating the design to new heights of complexity and sophistication. The DualTime edition of the One&Two Openworked presented a retrograde display, blending functionality with a new generation of Speake-Marin’s iconic Piccadilly case, which was first introduced in 2003. But, its real charm was marked by the partial skeletonisation of the movement, allowing the wearer to appreciate the interplay of the exposed mechanical components that was complemented by the small seconds counter at 1:30. This aesthetic indeed testified to the brand’s quirky combination of English daring and Swiss expertise. In just five years, the One&Two Openworked Dual Time has come a long way, relishing in some of the most outlandish iterations, be it the Dual Time Pink or the non-edible Mint and Lime, all of them coexisting with classic titanium and red gold iterations, all powered by the calibre SMA02—an automatic movement entirely created and assembled at Speake-Marin’s workshop Le Cercle des Horlogers in la Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

A Complication For Travellers: The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time

The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time is a series of six watches at this time, including the Dual Time Terracotta joining the family earlier this year, with its open-worked multi-layer dial featuring a frosted hand-finished plate with an orange terracotta positive PVD coating. This latest reference follows in the footsteps of its elder siblings—the Openworked Dual Time Red Gold and Dual Time Titanium. All timepieces in this series are offered in two case sizes of 38mm and 42mm.

The One&Two Openworked Dual Time Red Gold and Titanium watches are packed in red gold and titanium cases, respectively. The red gold watch is complete with the spade-shaped hand in gold, whereas the titanium one has its spade-shaped hand in rhodium, both receiving the Super-Luminova treatment. Apart from the case material and hands, the two iterations feature similar traits, including a skeletonised matt black-finished dial and dual-time indication in black and brown. While the red gold version is paired with a brown alligator or grey crocodile leather strap, the titanium case comes attached to a black alligator leather strap. The red gold version was released as a limited edition of 20 pieces of each case diameter, while the titanium edition was limited to 30 pieces of each size.

The genius of this series lies in its complication for travellers, who want to know at a quick glance their home time, along with the local time. The One&Two Openworked Dual Time has also become the first Speake-Marin travel watch, which shows the local time using the central timekeeping, while the home time can be easily seen on the secondary dial at nine o’clock. The two-tone ring roughly indicates whether it is day or night. But the One&Two Openworked Dual Time’s sophistication extends beyond its dual-time complication. The retrograde date indication, curved to surround the small seconds display, is adjusted with the simple press of a pusher on the case band, ensuring an easy and intuitive timekeeping experience.

Come Watches and Wonders 2021 and Speake-Marin became a tad playful with their dual-time iterations. They unveiled the Dual Time Mint. This peppy watch was quick to create headlines and debuted around the time when green watches were a rising trend. Within a year, the brand launched another bright, almost neon green One&Two Openworked Dual Time and called this one Lime. Each variant is offered in a strictly limited run, with only 10 pieces available in the 38mm size and 18 pieces in the 42mm size.

The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Lime features a Piccadilly case in black DLC-coated titanium, along with the openworked dial with a matt black finish

₹29,90,000

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Limited edition of 20 watches of each diameter, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Red Gold is paired with a brown alligator or grey crocodile leather strap

₹37,40,000

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The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Titanium comes paired with a black alligator leather strap and is a limited edition of 30 watches of each diameter

₹24,80,000

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The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint is paired with a mint green rubber strap and is a limited edition of 10 pieces of 38mm and 18 pieces of 42mm

₹29,40,000

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The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time series of watches are driven by the high-frequency SMA02 automatic movement, which achieves a 52-hour power reserve

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Both Mint and Lime feature the evolved Piccadilly case in black DLC-coated titanium, along with the open-worked dial with a matt black finish. The dual-time indication on the Mint is in black and mint green, while on the Lime it is in black and lime green. Their heart-shaped hands and rubber straps are also presented in matching colours. The cases of all the One&Two Openworked Dual Time watches come equipped with a front and back sapphire crystal treated with an antireflective coating.

The Openworked Dual Time Inside And Out

Since 2015, Speake-Marin have focused on developing and assembling proprietary movements at their Swiss atelier in the Neuchâtel area. The brand successfully created the SMA movement collection, which put on the table various open-worked, closed-dial, and high-complication timepieces. After developing high-end 3Hz movements, such as the minute repeater and double tourbillon, Speake-Marin then developed the 4Hz SMA01 calibre, which featured an open-worked design with a small seconds display at 1:30; a unique position that sets these timepieces apart from traditional watchmaking codes.

Like all One&Two Openworked Dual Time watches, the Mint also shows hours, minutes, seconds, small seconds, retrograde date at 1:30, and dual-time indication at nine o’clock

The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Lime houses the openworked dial with a black matt finish, which features heart-shaped lime green lacquered hands

Building on this innovative approach, the new SMA02 calibre powers the One&Two Openworked Dual Time references. This movement integrates a dual-time indication and a retrograde date display while maintaining the visual balance between the barrel, oscillating mass, and small seconds. The SMA02 calibre is a tastefully decorated automatic movement that beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and achieves a 52-hour power reserve.

Speake-Marin have refined the original Piccadilly case to make it appear more technical and visually pleasing. The case of the Dual Time watches feature a more integrated strap attachment, so it remain closer to the case. The crown is further submerged into the case for a softer case design, still preserving the iconic Speake-Marin DNA. The most striking change, however, is the replacement of the traditional glass set into the bezel. It has been swapped for a box-shaped glass, reducing the case thickness.

The Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint features an openworked dial in black matt finish, which flaunts heart-shaped mint green lacquered hands

Speake-Marin continue to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, offering timepieces that carry a contemporary appeal with their technical prowess and distinctive aesthetic imagination.

The Speake-Marin Openworked Dual Time In A Nutshell

• Case: 38mm or 42mm in red gold, grade-5 titanium, or black DLC-treated titanium
• Dial: Openworked dial; black matt finish; dual-time indication in black with brown (or mint or lime)
• Water resistance: 30m
• Functions and displays: Hour, minutes, small seconds seconds; retrograde date; dual-time indication at nine o’clock
• Movement: SMA02 calibre; self-winding movement with micro-rotor; 52-hour power reserve
• Strap: Leather or rubber, in various hues; pin buckle in case material
• Limited edition: 20 per size (red gold); 30 per size (titanium); 10 each (38mm, mint and lime); 18 each (42mm, mint and lime)

Frequently Asked Questions

• What is a Piccadilly case?

The Piccadilly case is a part of Speake-Marin’s distinctive design, featuring a rounded, cushion-like or drum-like shape with a stepped bezel, integrated lugs, and a fluted crown. It has added to the unique visual identity of Speake-Marin’s timepieces across various collections, from time-only models to more complicated dual-time and openworked watches, showcasing the Piccadilly case’s versatility.

• What is a retrograde date display?

A retrograde date display shows the date along an arc or a semi-circular scale with a hand that sweeps across the scale. When the date reaches the end—for instance, the 31st of the month—the hand jumps back to the start, creating an interesting visual effect. This sophisticated complication is often found in premium watches, highlighting the brand’s technical expertise and the wearer’s appreciation for intricate horology.

• What is a travel watch?

A travel watch is designed for frequent travellers, featuring a dual-time, GMT, or world-timer function to display both local and destination time, or even time in more zones. These watches offer displays of time in additional time zones and often include a day and night indicator. They are almost essential timekeeping tools for those who need to easily track multiple time zones while on the go.