Round-UpUtmost Ulysse Nardin: Their 10 Watches That Will Enthrall You

With over 5,000 accolades earned throughout their history, Ulysse Nardin are a force to reckon with, having survived the crests and troughs of time and timekeeping since 1846. The brand initially began to assemble chronograph complications for ships, and went on to supply marine timekeeping instruments for many of the world’s naval forces. In 1983, Rolf Schnyder took over the reins, partnering with timekeeping expert Dr Ludwig Oechslin. The duo brought forth a new generation of Ulysse Nardin watches that took the horological world by storm, and were a fitting response to the dominance of quartz watches during the crisis of the 1970s and 80s.

Continuing their legacy of innovation, in 2001, Ulysse Nardin watches were the first to incorporate silicium (French for silicon) in the escapement, eliminating the need for lubricating the same, allowing it to be much lighter. Six years later, the brand patented the DIAMonSIL escapement, merging man-made diamond with silicon to further enhance watch complications. We bring you 10 of the best Ulysse Nardin timepieces from the variety of collections they have on offer today.

Freak X

Introduced almost two decades after the first revolutionary Freak, the Freak X is a relatively traditional timekeeper. The 2001 Freak was a gamechanger in that the whole movement was turned inside out. The Freak X sort of ‘normalised’ the freakish nature of its predecessor. In a 43mm case made from titanium, the Freak X features a crown at three o’clock, but no hands or dial to speak of. Eleven baton-shaped indexes and the Ulysse Nardin logo at 12 are the hour markers, but that’s where the normalcy ends. The central bridge of the movement, visible on the dial side, serves as the minutes hand, while a satellite anchored to the central wheel is the hour indicator. Powered by the UN-230 calibre, these Ulysse Nardin watches offer a power reserve of 72 hours.

In a 43mm case made from titanium, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X features a crown at three o’clock, but no hands or dial to speak of

₹28,50,000

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The central bridge of the movement, visible on the dial side, serves as the minutes hand, while a satellite anchored to the central wheel is the hour indicator

₹28,50,000

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Powered by the UN-230 calibre, the flying carousel movement rotates on its own axis, displaying the lightweight balance wheel, nickel flyweights and stabilising micro-blades

₹28,50,000

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Blast Tourbillon

The Blast Tourbillon in a 45mm rose gold case features either a black DLC-treated or a blue PVD-treated bezel, with matching highlights on the skeletonised dial. Contrasting finishes on the bezel and case of these Ulysse Nardin watches complement each other beautifully, although these are just the beautiful frame for the actual art. Angles on the round case and dial were designed to evoke stealth fighter jets. Displaying the rose gold plated hour markers, the flange supports the double X that the collection is identified by. A rectangle across the dial is interrupted by the tourbillon cage at six o’clock, with a bright purple silicium escapement of the UN-172 calibre visible at the bottom.

Displaying the rose gold plated hour markers, the flange supports the double X on the rose gold and blue Blast Tourbillon timepiece

₹69,60,000

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A rectangle across the dial is interrupted by the tourbillon cage at six o’clock on the Blast Tourbillon, with a bright purple silicium escapement visible at the bottom

₹69,60,000

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Blast Dual Time

The Blast Dual Time watches are a sporty and contemporary take on travel-friendly timekeepers. The 42mm cases in steel feature bezels in black or midnight blue, with matching dials. Brushed and polished finishes on the case and angular lugs are highlighted by sunray-brushed, grained, and snailed details on the dial. An X extends from the hour markers, with a rectangle disrupting it on the dials of these Ulysse Nardin watches. A small seconds sub-dial sits at six o’clock, and at two is a double digit date display. The highlight of the watch, however, is a circular opening at nine that displays the digital hour in a second time zone. This can be set via pushers at eight and 10 o’clock on the case. The automatic UN-24 calibre powers the functions on the timepiece.

Brushed and polished finishes on the case and angular lugs of the Blast Dual Time timepieces are highlighted by sunray-brushed, grained, and snailed details on the dial

₹10,30,000

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A circular opening at nine o’clock displays the digital hour in a second time zone. This can be set via pushers at eight and 10 o’clock on the case

₹10,30,000

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Inside the Blast Dual Time watches and visible through the caseback is the automatic movement UN-24, with a 42-hour power reserve

₹10,30,000

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Diver Skeleton X Azure

An undeniably sporty and extremely cool diving tool, the Diver Skeleton X Azure timepiece features a robust 44mm case made from DLC-treated titanium and water resistant to 200m. Its bezel insert is in carbonium, an environmentally-friendly carbon fibre composite, with numerals engraved onto it. The openworked dial displays the collection’s prominent X-shaped bridge, showcasing the brand’s UN-372 automatic calibre housed within. Silicium has been used for the anchor and balance spring on this timepiece. The black X bridge features pops of the blue that gives the watch its name. A matching seconds hand and markers on the bezel of these Ulysse Nardin watches enhance the dual toned aesthetic of the skeletonised timepiece.

The Diver Skeleton X Azure timepiece features a robust 44mm case made from DLC-treated titanium and water resistant to 200m

₹28,50,000

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The black X bridge on the dial of the Diver Skeleton X Azure features pops of the blue that gives the watch its name

₹28,50,000

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The openworked dial and exhibition caseback display the collection’s prominent X-shaped bridge, showcasing the brand’s UN-372 automatic calibre housed within

₹28,50,000

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Highlights in blue pop against the black of the DLC treatment on the Diver Skeleton X Azure timepiece

₹28,50,000

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Diver Chronometer 44mm

A nod to the brand’s marine chronometers of the past, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer comes with a COSC certification. The watch features a contemporary and lightweight 44mm titanium case that offers a water resistance of 300m, and a unidirectional bezel in blue or black to match the colour of the dials. A power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a small seconds sub-dial with a date window at six sit against the grained finish on the blue or black dials. Powered by the UN-118 calibre, these Ulysse Nardin watches offer enhanced accuracy and anti-magnetism, courtesy of the silicium and DIAMonSIL escapement.

Special Mention: Diver Net Azure

To highlight the dangers of ocean pollution, Ulysse Nardin have used a material called Nylo, made from recycled fishing nets, for the ring on the case and caseback of the 44mm Diver Net Azure timepiece. Also, most of the steel used for the watch is recycled. On the sandblasted dial, a bright blue X stands out against the two indicators—power reserve and small seconds.

The Diver Chronometer features a contemporary and lightweight 44mm titanium case, and a unidirectional bezel in blue or black to match the colour of the dials

₹10,20,000

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A power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a small seconds sub-dial with a date window at six sit against the grained finish on the dial

₹10,20,000

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Ulysse Nardin have used a material called Nylo, made from recycled fishing nets, for the ring on the case and caseback of the 44mm Diver Net Azure timepiece

₹13,80,000

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On the sandblasted dial, a bright blue X stands out against the two indicators—power reserve and small seconds

₹13,80,000

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The Diver Net Azure timepiece is powered by the UN-118 calibre, visible through the caseback

₹13,80,000

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Diver Chronograph

With a titanium case sized at 44mm, the Diver Chronograph in blue is a robust purpose-driven tool watch with a 300m depth resistance. Clear markers and a red zero on the notched bezel make it easy to operate. The dial in blue is functional and beautiful in its grained finish with a neat, tricompax layout. Accents in red on the dial—hands of the central chronograph, and on the recorders—enhance the aesthetic appeal of the timepiece. The date window is tucked into the sub-dial at six o’clock, lending the watch a definite visual balance. The UN-150 calibre powers these Ulysse Nardin watches.

Diver Starry Night

Drawing inspiration from the colours of the Milky Way, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night is an enchanting timepiece in 39mm with a water resistance of 300m. Forty diamonds decorate the notched bezel, interrupted by numerals for zero, 15, 30 and 45. Eleven more stones serve as hour markers on the dial, with a discreet date window at six. The dial itself is a work of art. Created by superimposing mother-of-pearl and aventurine glass, the dial evokes a starry sky on a clear night, with what could look like a nebula shimmering in the far distance. Inside these Ulysse Nardin watches is the automatic UN-816 calibre, with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Marine Torpilleur Moonphase

The Torpilleur collection was named for small torpedo boats as a nod to the watches’ smaller 42mm case size, well, relative to the brand’s Marine line. Vintage marine chronometer inspiration can be seen on the Roman numerals, and the distinct poire timekeeping hands. The Torpilleur Moonphase features a case made from rose gold, a white dial, and deep blue alligator leather strap. On the dial, at 12 is a power reserve indicator, and a moonphase indicator at six o’clock. The UN-119 manufacture calibre powers the timepiece, offering a 60-hour power reserve, which is displayed via the indicator on the dial of these Ulysse Nardin watches.

Vintage marine chronometer inspiration can be seen on the Roman numerals, and the distinct poire timekeeping hands of the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase timepieces

₹24,80,000

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On the dial of the Marine Torpilleur Moonphase timepiece, at 12 is a power reserve indicator, and a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock

₹24,80,000

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The Torpilleur Moonphase features a case made from rose gold, a white dial, and deep blue alligator leather strap

₹24,80,000

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Marine Torpilleur 

A timeless marine-inspired design, and powered by a contemporary movement, the Marine Torpilleur series features cases in rose gold or steel. These Ulysse Nardin watches wear smaller than their 42mm because of the slimmer case profile. In steel, the dial options include blue, white or anthracite. Rose gold for the case is paired with a black dial, or a brown dial for the India special edition. On the white dial, blued poire hands stand out, while against the black, anthracite and brown dials are paired with rose gold hands. The 60-hour power reserve of the self-winding UN-118 calibre is indicated via a sub-dial at 12.

Marine Torpilleur Dual Time

The collection’s slim, round case measuring 44mm houses a very contemporary complication in a classic watch. The Marine Torpilleur Dual Time watch features Roman numerals for hour markers against a sun-burst blue backdrop. Contrasting textures on the satin-finished centre of the dial, and a snailed small seconds sub-dial at six highlight the radial finish of the periphery. A circular window houses the second time zone at nine, and the date is displayed in double digits on a date window at two o’clock. The UN-334 calibre powers these Ulysse Nardin watches with a power reserve of 48 hours.