FeatureFrom The House Of Gucci—Icons Of The Luxury Fashion Label

The world of high fashion is mesmerising and fascinating in every way. From the glamour of the fashion runways to the sophisticated allure of the flashy boutiques in all the iconic fashion hubs around the globe—designer labels have hypnotic appeal that is hard to ignore. Whether it’s Champs Elysees in Paris, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, Oxford Street in London, or Tokyo’s Ginza district, fashion-forward individuals make it a point to visit these streets whenever they travel. Today, while there are new designer and couture labels aplenty, it’s the icons of fashion that still hold maximum clout and the power of influencing trends in fashion. We’re talking about the likes of Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo and Gucci. These are the names in fashion that have helped define the look of the 20th century—the evolution of which we adorn ourselves with today. The turn of the century and times of war gave rise to fashion staples such as the trench coat—pioneered by Burberry—and a sharp evolution in women’s fashion, including ladies’ pants, which Gabrielle Chanel popularised back in the day. On the other hand, Louis Vuitton started with luggage, which led to people taking great pride in the bags they carried. One such pioneer was Guccio Gucci, the man who founded Gucci, the luxury fashion label, in 1921.

The Dawn Of Iconic Gucci

An Italian immigrant, who worked in hotels in Paris and London, Guccio Gucci was fascinated by the luxurious luggage that the guests in these fine hospitality establishments carried with them. When he returned to Florence, his hometown that was known for its leather craftsmanship, he set up a shop of fine leather goods. Drawing inspiration from styles that were quite the rage across Europe at the time, yet retaining Italian workmanship, truly presented products that were a class apart and grew immensely popular very fast. With the emerging Art Deco movement, it was a turning point in design and fashion, with scope for new ideas and creativity after World War I, and Guccio Gucci kept with the times. However, wartime was unfortunately not over. It was during World War II when heavy restrictions against the use of leather forced Guccio to get creative with materials. That’s when he made handbags with canvas, distinguishing the canvas with a pattern that was a web of diamonds. Called the Diamante, this pattern would eventually connect multiple G-and-G monograms—Guccio Gucci’s initials—and is now famously seen across collections and product lines of the brand; even the watches.

Gucci G-Timeless In Black And Steel

Ironically, the signature Gucci pattern, seen on this unisex watch, is largely debossed on leather. Called the Guccissima, this is an interpretation of the pattern that came about only much after Guccio’s time. It goes on to show how timeless this pattern truly is, since its relevance has transcended its original purpose. Set in a 38mm steel case that is water resistant to 50m, the dial of this watch replicates the look of the strap. Devoid of hour markers, the dial features only hour and minute hands that run on a quartz movement, and the Gucci name at 12 o’clock, along with the Gucci bee motif. More on the bee motif later.

Gucci Twirl

A similar rendition of the classic Gucci pattern is seen on this ladies’ watch. A reflection of the elegant turn-of-the-century style that Gucci was a part of, this watch represents the hit that Gucci has been with women known for their sartorial choices. The stiff bangle-like bracelet in yellow gold PVD-treated steel seamlessly meets the 23.5mm case, also built from the same material, and water resistant to 30m. The champagne-coloured dial and the rivets on the frame of the case add a nuanced touch to this piece.

Gucci Ghost G-Timeless

More in line with the pattern’s original inspiration, this unisex timepiece features the connected Gs on a canvas-like material, lined with rubber on the strap. Also presenting a pop of colour that Gucci significantly used not long after it was established, this watch also reflects inspirations from the world of art and represents modern interpretations of the iconic pattern. The 38mm black PVD-treated steel case is water resistant to 50m.

The Gucci Stripes

The Diamante pattern wasn’t all that made the distinctive canvas bag even a post-war staple for Gucci. Guccio’s original bag design also included a strap with red and green stripes, which has, to date, been an integral part of Gucci’s iconography. Still often used in straps of bags, these stripes are also seen as a design motif on shoes, T-shirts, and watches as well.

Gucci Constance

A perfect throwback to the inspiration that Guccio Gucci drew from luggage, this unisex watch is quite the statement piece. The mother-of-pearl dial in a yellow gold PVD-treated steel case is fitted within a 40mm outer case in Plexiglas, featuring the red and green stripes and made to look like a padlock. This is attached to a brown leather strap that is clearly a reference to straps on vintage luggage—often secured with a padlock. Water resistant to 30m, this piece certainly is secure.

Gucci G-Timeless In White

A far more contemporary use of the stripes—on the white nylon strap—this men’s watch is the epitome of modern sporty style. Set in a 40mm steel case that is water resistant to 50m, the textured white dial even features the original Gucci Diamante pattern. The quartz movement beating within even powers the date display at six o’clock.

Gucci Gets A Handle On Things

Times of war really do change the course of history, even in the smallest ways. With the end of World War II, there was a serious shortage of materials and several restrictions in availability. Among limitations in supplies of the more crucial kind, even the materials that Gucci used to make bags at the time weren’t readily available. At their inventive best, Gucci found a use for pigskin leather in making bags, and bamboo to make their handles. Bamboo was heated to make it malleable and shape it into semi-circles for the handles.

Necessity may have been the mother of invention here, but this make-shift idea soon gained immense popularity. From Elizabeth Taylor and Lady Diana to Naomi Watts and Beyoncé, major style icons have favoured the Gucci Bamboo handbags over the years. A strong motif for Gucci, the bamboo was soon adapted for other accessories and even fragrances, and of course, watches.

Gucci Bamboo

Seen prominently in the bezel on this watch, the bamboo motif here is an extension of the Bamboo collection. A flag-bearer for Gucci’s unique design and trend-setting spirit, these distinctive watches are available in white or black. Housing a quartz movement and water resistant to 30m, the 35mm steel case is fitted with a bracelet that also features elements of bamboo, by way of the links. Another interesting element on the bracelet is the ‘Horsebit’ links, attached to the singular lugs.

Gucci’s Equestrian-Inspired Casual Turn

Aside from the luxury luggage that inspired Guccio Gucci, his stint in the luxury hospitality industry also exposed him to the lifestyles and activities of the English aristocracy. One major aspect of their leisure activities was of the equestrian kind. From riding and racing to polo and other equestrian sports, he took back his fascination for this world when he returned to Italy, incorporating elements of equestrianism in his leather goods. This was taken forward even by his son, Aldo, who most famously included the bit of the horse into what became a Gucci signature—the Gucci loafers.

Launched in 1953, the loafers soon became a symbol of a leisurely lifestyle. Based on a North American moccasin style, it reflected a breakaway from traditional British formality, and represented the emerging relaxed outlook of the Americans and Italians, among others. This was one of the major steps that led to the more casual dressing of the late 1900s. In 1966, the brand came out with the ‘bit loafer’, featuring a metal strap—in the shape of the bit that is connected to a horse’s reins—across the instep. This gave rise to the Horsebit collection as the Horsebit motif translated to other products as well, for men and women.

Gucci Horsebit

The Horsebit elements seen in this watch are in the form of the frame of the case and the bracelet’s first link attached to the upper lug, as well as the links that clasp the watch onto the wrist. This elegant ladies’ timepiece is set in 28mm steel case, water resistant to 30m, and housing a quartz movement behind its mother-of-pearl dial.

The Interlocking Gs Of Gucci

After the death of Guccio Gucci, Aldo was the driving force of the company, and till the ’70s, Gucci was extremely strong. Its iconic status—now as a leading fashion house, in addition to being a leather goods manufacturer—had grown. People wanted more. A part of this rise and catering to the craze was the introduction to the double-G logo. Paolo Gucci, Aldo’s son, is said to have played an instrumental role in creating it. The Gs were introduced into the Diamante pattern, and eventually even translated to the interlocking Gs that we today see in belt buckles and shoes and bags, and even in watches.

Gucci Interlocking

The brand’s interlocking Gs form the structure of the 29mm rose gold PVD-treated steel case of this watch, which is water resistant to 50m. Behind the mother-of-pearl dial is an automatic movement. The singular lugs are fitted with a leather strap in a brown hue seen in several other Gucci leather products as well.

Maximum Gucci

By the time Aldo Gucci’s sons were in the company, in-fighting among the Guccis—especially between Aldo’s family and his brother, Rodolfo—had muddied the waters. Aldo’s appeasements towards Rodolfo even soured the relationship between him and his son, Paolo. Their differences led to Paolo implicating Aldo for tax evasion. With Paolo having cashed out of his Gucci share and Aldo in prison, the company’s control fell into the hands of Maurizio Gucci, Rodolfo’s son, who had ended up with a majority of the share. Internal politics continued between the remaining Guccis, and Maurizio’s spendthrift ways didn’t help. The company hit their lowest at the beginning of the ’90s. Maurizio was eventually murdered, for which his ex-wife was convicted. He was the last Gucci at the helm of the brand and then came the much-needed Tom Ford era.

As creative director, Tom Ford turned the brand around with his fresh insights and slick approach to design and product lines. He brought sexiness into the picture with satin and velvet, and Gucci’s runway collections were a roaring success. By the end of his tenure, the brand was certainly back in the game, giving his successor, Frida Giannini the freedom to take more risks and be more creative. While playing with colour, silhouettes and bold patterns, Giannini saw merit in retaining elements of Gucci’s glorious past under the founder. One of them was in the form of Guccissima, literally meaning ‘maximum Gucci’ in Italian.

The Guccissima

A reinterpretation of the Diamante pattern with double-Gs, the Guccissima name was explored in other accessories as well. A product of this is the Guccissima watch, which plays up a single G on the bezel of the 36mm steel case that is fitted with a slim, structured bracelet. Water resistant to 50m, the case houses a quartz movement behind its mother-of-pearl dial.

The Gucci Garden Days

After the Giannini years came the creative genius of Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s current creative director, who took over in 2014. Michele took creativity to another level with a big part of his creativity informed heavily by nature. Now it wasn’t just traditional florals in pretty forms. It’s been an edgy take on flora and fauna, with modern silhouettes, and just the right touches of hipster and bohemian style. One such collection is called the Gucci Garden. This main fashion line comes in limited pieces, but the inspirations have gone beyond.

When it came to animals, Michele drew from the mythological significance of certain creatures. His use of snake motifs draw from Greek and Roman art wherein the reptiles represented knowledge. Tigers came from Greek mythology, most famously seen in the buckles of the Dionysus boots, inspired by the Greek god, Dionysus, who rode in a chariot pulled by tigers. These tiger motifs are seen in buckles and clasps even in collections of bags. And then there are bees. Owing to their industrial and cooperative nature, bees have been considered as honourable and noble, and are seen carved in stone in old European buildings, especially in Rome. The bee motif comes from there and is seen in bags, scarves, men’s sweaters and cardigans, and—you guessed it—watches!

Gucci Le Marché des Merveilles

Somewhat translating to ‘the wonders market’ in French, the Le Marché des Merveilles is a collection of watches and jewellery for men and women, designed by Alessandro Michele himself. While the collection is unabashedly resplendent with the motifs of butterflies, bees, tigers and snakes, this watch in particular showcases the noble bee in gold, complemented by the gold PVD-treated 38mm steel case that is water resistant to 50m. The canvas-inspired dial and nylon strap present the signature Gucci stripes in red and green.

While Gucci has been in able hands for the last 20-plus years, the brand has stayed relevant through the last couple of decades, and today holds the weight it once did when Guccio Gucci was in charge. Creating edgy styles, yet retaining its icons of the past, Gucci is undoubtedly a favourite of fashion icons even today. Almost 100 years old, it’s still among the hottest brands of the world, as the latest 2018 Lyst Index shows, and it’s hard not to look forward to what comes next from this glorious Italian fashion house.