SpotlightDesigned To Excel: Ladies’ Watches That Seamlessly Blend Aesthetics And Mechanics
For far too long, women’s timepieces have followed traditional design codes that are tropes associated with the fairer sex. From dainty round dials fitted with quartz movements to suit petite wrists, to diamond-dripping bracelets that are probably better off as jewellery; ladies’ watches have lacked a voice in an industry that has been primarily focused on churning out technical marvels for men. This International Women’s Day, we look at some timepieces that are challenging these archaic horological stereotypes
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This year started on a high note for women, when USA’s Democratic Party candidate Kamala Harris (56), took oath as vice president of the United States on January 20. With this victory, she also sealed her place in the annals of history by becoming the first woman to hold the second highest office, and the first woman of colour to be elected to the White House. While this historic moment, once again attested the fact that women are truly unstoppable; it has not come easy. The fact that women can now vote, own property, become entrepreneurs, and hold key portfolios in running a country’s economy maybe taken for granted today, but are things that have been achieved through much struggle and the outcomes of the feminist movements of yore.
A New Dawn
While every era has had prominent feminist figures, the movement gathered steam during the early 20th century—an age when women became more cognisant of their rights, and demanded equality and agency in the social, economic and political functioning of the state. One such landmark moment was in 1908, when an army of 15,000 women took to the streets in New York, demanding better wages, decent working hours and the right to cast their vote. And a year later, the Socialist Party of America observed the first National Women’s Day—an acknowledgement of the demands put forth by the protestors during the rally. Such was the remarkable success of this event that in 1911, it was celebrated in Austria, Denmark, Germany and Switzerland as the first International Women’s Day. This was made official by the United Nations in 1975, and since then has been observed annually on March 8. The day recognises and celebrates women’s achievements and how they continue to shatter the glass ceiling, while striving to work towards creating gender equality in a male-dominated society.
Haute Horlogerie Reinforcing Gender Stereotypes
The watch industry, too, for the longest time has been a male bastion with important portfolios being helmed by men, mostly because of its traditional approach towards the craft—whether manufacturing or selling timepieces. And this is quite the paradox because if one delves into records, the first wristwatch—an oval repeater, presented on a bracelet of hair and gold thread was created by French watchmaker, Abraham Louis Breguet in 1810 for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, who was also Napoleon’s younger sister. However, this was merely an expensive royal fashion accessory, but established wristwatches as clearly a feminine pursuit mostly in the form of petite dials on jewelled or leather bracelets in the 18th and 19th centuries. Their design trumped functionality, but that wasn’t of much consequence since the owners were besotted with the concept of ‘carrying’ time strapped on to their wrists rather than the precision of the piece. Of course, World War I changed the entire landscape, and by the time it ended 1918, wristwatches had garnered enough popularity, thanks to soldiers, and were perceived as macho enough to be accepted by men. And brands left no stone unturned in catering to this segment with innovation reserved for men’s watches—be it diver’s or pilot’s watches, or the technically-nuanced tourbillons and perpetual calendars.
The Times They Are A-Changin’
Of late, though, there has been a marked shift, with more gender inclusivity.
And one finds key women players such as Catherine Rénier, who’s been the CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. There’s also Chabi Nouri, who assumed office as CEO of Piaget in 2017. And then there’s Carole Forestier-Kasapi, who has established a formidable reputation in the industry while heading movement creation at Cartier for almost two decades, and is now in charge of the movements division at TAG Heuer, since last year. These are just a few names but there is a sizable chunk of women within the industry busting stereotypes around ladies’ timepieces and bending the rules of the watchmaking game. And might we add… they are winning! So this year, as we celebrate the 110th International Women’s Day, let’s take a closer look at a few remarkable branded watches for women that are challenging the standard horological norms, in sync with—‘Choose to challenge’—the theme for 2021.
Bulgari Lvcea
‘Lvcea’ or ‘Lucea’ stems from luce, the Italian term for ‘light’. And this magnificent creation is inspired by Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti timepiece, which pays homage to the elusive and enigmatic serpent. Comprising 12 different styles, the collection has watches in steel, pink gold, and in combinations of the two metals, including fully-paved versions as well. This 33mm version, in a case of steel and 18-karat rose gold, is presented on a trademark Tubogas bracelet in the same combination, and has a crown topped by a single diamond. Water resistant to 50m, this is a ladies’ watch with a solid persona. It is the first skeleton watch in the industry that uses the casa’s logo in an ingenious manner on the dial, in place of the hour markers—all protected by glare-proofed sapphire crystal. It is powered by a mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding, and one can get a glimpse of the internal mechanism, thanks to the open-worked structure. This movement beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a power reserve of 42 hours.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral
The Manero Peripheral watches for women are beautiful, inside-out. On the surface they showcase a mother-of-pearl dial in white or brown, in a 40mm stainless steel case, topped by a bezel paved with 60 diamonds. This becomes a winning combination since these watches are powered by the in-house manufacture calibre CFB A2050, which was launched in 2016. It offers a central hour-and-minute display, accompanied by small seconds at six o’clock as well as the date at three o’clock. It draws its energy from a double-sided self-winding mechanism with a peripheral rotor that enables a low case thickness—perfect for the subtle dimensions of ladies’ watches. A power reserve of 55 hours and the precise chronometer speed certified by the COSC make the Manero Peripheral an ideal companion for women, who will not just settle for anything but the best.
Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Power Reserve
A complication that is often undermined is the humble, yet useful power reserve feature in a timepiece. It informs the wearer of how long one can go without winding the watch, in order for it to function smoothly. For ladies, who like to be in control and at the helm of decision-making, the Cat’s Eye Power Reserve is a great option. The dial is sophisticated with guilloche engraving—executed in a manner that gives the impression that it’s originating from the sub-dial at nine o’clock, indicating the seconds. At three o’clock lies the date aperture, which is encircled by two off-centre ovals that resemble a cat’s eye. This is in sync with the elliptical case design and enhances the visual appeal of the timepiece. Near this date display lies a small power reserve indicator that functions via a small hand that sweeps across a starry cluster. The dial also showcases eight diamonds hour markers, placed between three, six, nine and 12 o’clock. The bezel is studded with 64 diamonds, and there’s also an option with a plain bezel. The watch is powered by the automatic GP03300-0070 calibre, which beats at a frequency of 28,800vph, and can function for up to 46 hours after it is fully wound.
Corum Miss Golden Bridge
Two hands atop a linear movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case—the only elements visible on the dial. This, perhaps makes the Corum Golden Bridge one of the most distinctive watches in the haute horlogerie segment. And in 2010, the brand launched the Miss Golden Bridge timepiece to mark the thirtieth anniversary of this legendary calibre. This watch is a proper feminine piece as opposed to a pared-down version of a men’s watch. It is housed in a new case—open at the front, at the back and also on its sides—to ensure maximum play of light, filtering in through the sapphire crystal used all around. The sleek tonneau shape, imparts the curves that sit on women’s wrists with ease. The horns have also been removed to allow the leather strap to perfectly merge into the case—much like the seamless fluidity found in cuff watches. The watch is powered by the calibre CO113, composed of 140 elements—including hand-engraved bridges and a base plate made of gold. These are arranged in a parallel line to form the famed ‘baguette’ movement. This beats at a frequency of 4Hz and offers a power reserve of 40 hours.
Parmigiani Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy
Unveiled in 2016, the Parmigiani Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy is an ode to astronomy, and is equipped with the brand’s 33rd proprietary movement. The gorgeous dial depicts the moon phases and is made of blue aventurine glass to represent the midnight sky. It also gives an impression that it’s sprinkled with gold dust to mimic the twinkling stars. The watchmakers have even replicated the moon’s craters on the disc! One can also see skeletonised delta-shaped hands and pink gold indices. The 33mm stainless steel case is topped by a bezel set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 0.51 carats. The small seconds are at six o’clock against a black background, revealing the date on a matching disc. This lunar timekeeper is equipped with the automatic in-house PF318 movement and the moon phase module was specially created for this watch. This is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and offers a 50-hour power reserve. It operates through a gear moved by the hour wheel, which rotates at half the speed of the gear. This means that it rotates the moon disc every 24 hours via a flexible blade incorporated in the wheel’s centre. There’s also a corrector at nine o’clock, which allows one to manually position the moon in relation to the day and date of the actual geographic location. The mechanism also incorporates a safety device to prevent any damage to the gear, in case it is used incorrectly.
Shop The Story
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Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye
80486D56A162-CK6A
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Ulysse Nardin
3343-222/30-09
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous
Q3578430
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BVLGARI Lvcea
102878
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Carl F. Bucherer Manero
00.10917.08.83.11
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Carl F. Bucherer Manero
00.10917.08.73.11
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Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye
80486D56A162-56A
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Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye
80486-56-162-56A
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Corum Golden Bridge
113.102.85/0001 0000
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Parmigiani Tonda
PFC283-0060601-XA3121
