Round-UpOf Turbines And Rotors—Introducing Perrelet And Some Of Their Outstanding Timepieces

There’s no denying the fact that the haute horlogerie business thrives on innovation. While it helps to have a rich legacy and heritage to always turn to; these are not the only factors that enable a brand to survive in a dynamic environment where cutting-edge technology has been changing the name of the game. However, there are a few brands that have been able to keep up with this momentum and Perrelet are one of them. Established in 1777 by Abraham-Louis Perrelet, a gifted watchmaker from days of yore, the brand was constantly at the helm of innovation often ‘displaying an audacity firmly rooted in its DNA and values’. It is counted among some of the most dynamic brands in the horological space and has cultivated a unique avant-garde spirit that’s imbued in its unique timepieces.

In fact, one of its most famous inventions from the 18th century—the automatic winding mechanism—was a product of groundbreaking technology back then as it was guided by the movement of the wearer’s wrist to wind the mainspring automatically, without the need for manual winding. This became a reference point for all watchmakers, who introduced this mechanism in their watches from that point onwards, of course tweaking it to suit their watches but the basic self-winding mechanism remains unchanged, till date. However, like a lot of legacy brands, Perrelet, too, had discontinued operations in the mid-19th century (though the brand claims otherwise) only to be revived in 1995 when they launched the Double Rotor movement to pay homage to the founder and commemorate his innovations in watchmaking, which have stood the test of time and have perpetuated over the years in the horology business. This unique mechanism, connects the winding weight of the automatic system to a rotor on the dial side. Also known as the ‘Dipteros model’; it features a second rotor lying underneath, and allows the wearer to see the mechanism in motion through the watch face, while imparting greater efficiency and precision to the watch.

But Perrelet, once again, went through financial upheavals and stopped manufacturing watches till they were resuscitated again in 2009 and unveiled the ingenious Turbine model. Inspired by the emblematic double rotor, here the oscillating weight on the dial side was modified into a propeller, which makes for a hypnotic vision as it rotates at top speed. Since then, there’s been no stopping for the brand as they continue to consolidate their position with innovative haute horlogerie offerings that fuse traditional Swiss watchmaking know-how with contemporary design codes. Their artistic creations are largely classified under three main pillars—Classics, Turbine, and Lab Peripheral—which are hallmarks of authenticity, high-quality, and reliability. Let’s take a look at some of their best timepieces.

Classics First Class Double Rotor Skeleton Black Edition

Perrelet presented their famous automatic movement with a Double Rotor mechanism in 1995, which has now become the brand’s signature style. The First Class Double Rotor Black Edition also features the same technology with a double oscillating mass, which allows the automatic mechanism to accumulate energy from the two rotors. The first oscillating mass is placed under the calibre, while the second is visible on the dial allowing the owner to observe the energy supply to the movement. This synchronised rotation of the rotors feeds the barrel and provides the mechanism with a steady flow of energy, ensuring a high-performance charge. The watch comes in a 42mm stainless-steel case, coated with black PVD, and is water-resistant to 50m. The case lines are fluid with rounded, bevelled lugs decorated with a vertical satin-brushed finishing and a contrasting polished bezel. It is driven by the in-house Calibre P-481, an automatic movement beating at 28,800vph with a 42-hour power reserve. The dial features central hour, minute and seconds hands—crafted in 4N rose gold, as are the applied baton indices, and stand out against the black ring with a guilloché decoration. Available in a limited-edition of 240 pieces, this watch is presented on a black leather strap with a folding clasp, decorated with the brand’s logo.

The First Class Double Rotor Black Edition features the double rotor mechanism, which allows it to accumulate energy from two rotors. The first oscillating mass is placed under the calibre, while the second is visible on the dial

It is driven by the in-house Calibre P-481, an automatic movement beating at 28,800vph with a 42-hour power reserve

Perrelet Classics

₹4,20,000

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Classics Weekend Collection

Launched in 2019, the Weekend collection is a line of slim dress watches characterised by a refined round case, measuring 39mm and water-resistant to 50m. There are three models which are part of this current line-up: a classic 3-Hands with hours, minutes and central seconds; a 3-Hands Open Heart with a view of the balance wheel at six o’clock; and a GMT model for globetrotters. The resplendent dials feature an elegant satin-brushed finish, which is further enhanced by a sunray decoration, emanating from the centre. These are protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and the dials of the Weekend 3 Hands and Weekend GMT models also showcase a date window at three o’clock. Their cases come in stainless steel or in PVD-coated steel with a rich rose-gold hue.

The GMT model is a practical travelling wrist companion, offering the time in two different time zones at a glance. Here, reading the local and home time is extremely simple, thanks to the 24-hour scale and its practical layout. It is positioned in the central section and features Arabic numerals and square markers, and is indicated by a hand with a red triangular tip. This is fairly simple to use as all the functions, including setting the GMT hand, are adjusted by the crown. All models in this range are driven by in-house, automatic calibres—P-401 for the GMT; P-321 for the 3-Hands; and P-391 for the 3-Hands Open Heart—and all are equipped with a 42-hour power reserve.

The resplendent dials feature an elegant satin-brushed finish, which is further enhanced by a sunray decoration, emanating from the centre. They also showcase a date window at three o’clock

₹1,82,000

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The GMT model shows the time in two different time zones at a glance. Here, reading the local and home time is extremely simple, thanks to the 24-hour scale and its practical layout

₹1,82,000

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It is positioned in the central section and features Arabic numerals and square markers, and is indicated by a hand with a red triangular tip. This is fairly simple to use as all the functions are adjusted by the crown

₹2,01,000

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The exhibition caseback gives a good view of the movement and the oscillations of its full-metal rotor. The numerous finishings on the movement include vertical laser-engraved lines in the central part of the rotor and a background decorated with horizontal stripes. These timepieces are presented on leather straps or also come with comfortable and polished stainless-steel bracelets.

Turbine Pilot

First launched in 2014, the Turbine Pilot line fuses cutting-edge technology along with fine Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship to create a line of bold aviator watches that exude a distinct style with distinguishing features such as a circular slide rule—integral to aviator watches. The timepiece comes in a 48mm case crafted in stainless steel with a black PVD coating, and is water-resistant to 50m. This forms the framework for a complex, three-dimensional dial with its hypnotic turbine and blades, which spin at the slightest movement of the wrist. As soon as the 12 black, anodised aluminium blades are set in motion, one can witness the optical effects caused by the two blades (on top and below), rotating simultaneously, revealing hues of blue, red, yellow or beige stripes—depending on the model. To ensure optimal legibility in all light conditions, the indices and Arabic numerals at three, six, nine and 12 o’clock, are applied on the sapphire crystal disc above the turbine, and are luminescent just as are the hands. The peripheral slide rule scales on the flange and the tip of the central seconds hand on all four models also match the colour of the stripes. The bidirectional rotating bezel is activated by the crown at three o’clock, while the time is adjusted via the integrated crown at nine o’clock. The watch is powered by the manufacture P-331-MH automatic calibre, a COSC-certified movement that offers 42 hours of autonomy, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Turbine Evo

The name ‘Evo’ is taken from the word evolution and refers to the upgraded and enhanced performance of this timepiece. It comes in a 44mm stainless-steel case, topped by a flatter and smoother bezel and a fluted case band. Even the crown is more prominent now, making winding and time-setting functions much simpler. The 12-blade dial—a distinctive design code of all Perrelet’s turbine models, is protected under a sapphire glass. The propeller—in black anodised aluminum with five tungsten counterweights, rotates in time to the motions of the wrist, and as the blades spin, a lower sub-dial is revealed with vibrant shades of red, electric blue or gold, depending on the versions. The timepiece is powered by the in-house automatic calibre P-331-MH, a COSC-certified movement with 42 hours of power reserve. The Evo models featured here are water-resistant to 50m and are presented on leather straps or stainless-steel bracelets.

Lab Peripheral 3 Hands & Date

Introduced in 2012, the Lab Peripheral 3 Hands & Date models feature a rotor that dances discreetly around the periphery of the dial, depending on the movement of the wearer’s wrist. The models featured here are available in dial hues of blue or green and come with matching leather straps, corresponding to the colours of the watch face. They come in 42mm x 42mm stainless-steel, cushion-shaped cases, water-resistant to 50m and stand out for their strong, distinctive sporty character. The dial is finely adorned with a multi-layered structure, with a combination of various decorative motifs, such as the central disc embellished with raised vertical stripes and the matte, sandblasted ring surrounding it. Here, the minute flange matches the dial colour and stands out as it is placed right next to the contrasting silver shade of the peripheral oscillating weight. There is also a rectangular date window placed at six o’clock. It is driven by the in-house manufacture self-winding movement calibre P- 411, beating at 28,800vph with a 42-hour power reserve.

The Lab Peripheral 3 Hands & Date models feature a rotor that dances discreetly around the periphery of the dial, and are available in dial hues of blue or green and come with matching leather straps

They come in 42mm x 42mm stainless-steel, cushion-shaped cases, water-resistant to 50m and stand out for their strong, distinctive sporty character. The dial is finely adorned with a combination of various decorative motifs

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Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date

The Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date comes in three versions and features useful functions such as the second time zone with day/night indicator and the calendar with a big double window. While the watch features complications, the display is elegant, thanks to its discreet and refined design on the dial, which also looks pretty contemporary. The timepiece comes in a 42mm x 42mm stainless-steel cushion-shaped case, offering a water resistance up to 50m. The dial features a three-dimensional effect, achieved by the multi-level structure and different decorations which add depth. It’s embellished by a variety of finishes and plays on the three colour variations, along with elegant vertical lines in relief within a metallic circular-brushed rim, surrounded by a matte sandblasted ring. The date is displayed at 12 o’clock in two small windows, while the dual time function—which allows two time zones to be displayed at the same time (local and home time)—are displayed on a counter at six o’clock. Here, the day/night indication is also indicated through a small round aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house manufacture self-winding Calibre P-421, composed of 302 parts, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph to supply an energy reserve of 42 hours. The models are presented on leather straps complementing the dial hues of black, blue or green.

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