Round-UpTurning Back Time: Presenting 2023 Revivals That Hark Back To The Golden Age Of Watchmaking

Watches designed in the 1960s and 70s were functional and practical, and they set the foundation for the stunning timepieces of today. Perhaps, that is why the 60s and 70s were regarded as the ‘golden age of watchmaking’. Still, with the ‘quartz crisis’ looming, a lot of these beautifully designed watches were forced to retire, and timepieces from that era became relics—highly sought-after ones, but relics nonetheless. Recognising the value of design from the 60s and 70s, brands have been creating revivals of vintage watches for a few years now. And, while most revival timepieces are faithful remakes of the historical versions, others only take design cues from the past, but are contemporary and relevant—futuristic, even, some would say. Either way, all of these revivals are about more than just the watch. They tell stories of dreams, history, innovation, change, and the future.

Angelus Chronographe Médical X Massena LAB

The Angelus Medical Chronograph was introduced in 1960, when brands were customising their chronographs to perform a particular function. In this case, the chronograph function was modified to measure up to 60 seconds, required for both pulsometer and asthmometer scales marked around the periphery. The 2023 Angelus Chronographe Médical timepiece is a faithful revival of the original. Only, now, the marginally larger 39mm case is fittingly made from 316L surgical-grade steel. The heart of the watch has also been updated to the A5000 calibre, a manual-winding movement—another throwback to the golden age. A noble watch designed for medical professionals, the Angelus Chronographe Médical puts life-saving functions first, while also resuscitating a beautiful original.

The 2023 Angelus Chronographe Médical watch was resuscitated from a 1960 model

The pulsometer and asthmometer scales have pride of place on the dial, and the hours and minutes track have been pushed to the inside

The pulsometer between 12 and three o'clock is marked in green, black and red, showing the urgency of action required

The central chronograph has been modified to 60 seconds, necessary for measuring both scales

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Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration

Inspired by designs from the 1960s, Carl F. Bucherer released a quartet of dress watches, tailored to suit today’s sensibilities. The cases are in rose gold—instead of the yellow gold, which was popular in the ‘golden ages’—and in stainless steel. Squared-off and bevelled rectangular hands and indexes are reminiscent of the 60s. The watches are paired with matching Milanese bracelets, adding flair to the vintage feel of the timepieces. But beyond the aesthetic, the Heritage Chronometer Celebration really celebrates the ‘chronometer’ aspect of these watches, a tag of precision and accuracy certified by COSC, an independent Swiss body. Time(piece) for a celebration, indeed. 

Inspired by designs from the 1960s, Carl F. Bucherer released a quartet of dress watches, tailored to suit today’s sensibilities, with cases in rose gold—instead of the yellow gold, which was popular in the ‘golden ages’—and in stainless steel

Seiko Prospex Naomi Uemura Limited Edition

The Seiko Prospex Naomi Uemura edition is part of the brand’s 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation line that made an appearance in 2019. This 2023 revival is a tribute to Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura, the first in the world to summit five major peaks. The dial features an engraving of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs. A blue coin-edged bezel and blued crown at four o’clock are a nod to the shadows around the mountain. Hour markers and hands are coated with Seiko’s Lumibrite, and the date window is nestled unobtrusively at four. The robust asymmetrical, cushion-shaped case is water-resistant to 200m, up from its predecessor’s 150m, and houses Seiko’s diver calibre 8L35. Limited to 500 pieces, the Seiko Prospex Naomi Uemura edition is as much a fitting tribute to a 1970s watch as it is to a fearless explorer.

This 2023 Seiko Prospex 1970 Diver's Watch Reinterpretation is a tribute to Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura, the first in the world to summit five major peaks. The dial features an engraving of Mont Blanc, the first of Uemura’s climbs

TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

The only ever TAG Heuer Skipper model released in a Carrera case in 1963 became something of a legend…until now. The brand resurrected the Skipper in their new 39mm Carrera Chronograph ‘glass box’ case. The colours on the sailing watch are an exact match with the original—a distinct 15-minute regatta timer in orange, green, and the mint inspired by the shade on the boat that inspired the watch. Noticeable changes include bolder indexes and orange-tipped hands, an almost-invisible small seconds sub-dial and date window at six, the name ‘Skipper’ in the recorder at nine, and the Carrera blue that runs into the minutes track around the periphery. Most importantly, this Carrera Skipper is no longer a limited edition, which means the legend just became a true story.

TAG Heuer resurrected the Skipper in their new 39mm Carrera Chronograph ‘glass box’ case. The colours on the sailing watch are an exact match with the original—a distinct 15-minute regatta timer in orange, green, and mint inspired by the shade on the boat that, in turn, inspired the watch

Tissot Sideral S

The world’s first fiberglass regatta timepiece, the 1971 Tissot Sideral S stood out for being robust yet lightweight, seriously sporty yet summer chic. The 2023 Sideral S is all this, and more. The case—measuring 41mm by 46.5mm—of the freshly resurrected Sideral S is in forged carbon and features a black PVD bezel. The black dial features splashes of colour for the regatta timer between 12 and two o’clock, the seconds hand, and the minutes ring on the blue and yellow models. The blue version’s carbon case features blue flecks, which are, simply put, extremely cool. Perforated rubber straps in various colours are easy to switch, making the 2023 Sideral S a funky, versatile, and ultramodern timepiece.

Zenith Defy Revival Shadow

The most futuristic of the revivals in 2023, so far, is Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow in titanium. The iconic 1969 Defy watch, which made a comeback in 2019, was already futuristic at the time, owing to its octagonal case paired with a 14-sided bezel and a ‘ladder’ bracelet. And then Zenith went further and made these in titanium. Now this geometric timepiece in a titanium grey—paired with a black dial and rhodium-plated, horizontally-grooved square indexes—gives the watch much more figurative weight than even, perhaps, the original 1969 Defy.

The iconic 1969 Defy watch was already futuristic at the time, owing to its octagonal case paired with a 14-sided bezel and a ‘ladder’ bracelet. And then Zenith went further and made these in titanium

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Now, this geometric timepiece in a titanium grey—paired with a black dial and rhodium-plated, horizontally-grooved square indexes—gives the watch much more figurative weight than even, perhaps, the original 1969 Defy

₹7,40,000

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In their own way, each of these watches seamlessly integrates the past with the future to form a contemporary timepiece that carries with it a bit of its history and ideas for the future. Here’s hoping that more archived relics get to step into the spotlight.