Round-UpThe Finest New Timepieces Unveiled At Geneva Watch Days 2024
A watch event that has gained importance, with the global watch community taking more notice every year, Geneva Watch Days is in its fifth edition this year. Celebrating the might of independent watchmaking brands, the fair brings together an assortment of new releases, across the spectrum of horology. Here are the finest new products being unveiled this week at Geneva Watch Days 2024
May We Recommend
Alpina Heritage Automatic
Thematically on the other end of the sporty and edgy Alpiner Extreme collection, the Alpina Heritage models celebrate the legacy of the brand going back well over a century. Far older than their sister brand Frederique Constant, Alpina’s intention is to show their glorious past by reving old models. The new editions are very much vintage-inspired, but with the detailing and finishing that technology affords them in this day and age. Retro is the word that comes to mind when you see the 2024 Heritage Automatic, especially owing to the sector dials, and the, the typeface used, the ‘patinated’ appearance of dials, and classic blued hands. While one edition definitely has art déco-style numerals, the one featured here has sleeker Arabic numerals in the cardinal positions. Seen in a deep bronze-ish hue, the markers complement the slightly central portion of the dial, featuring a tint of pink. At 38mm, and with a thickness of 10.15mm, the size is quite ideal, and it feels very sleek to wear. Housed within this case is the AL-520 calibre based on the Sellita SW200-1, which offers a basic power reserve of 38 hours.
Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver
The Angelus Chronodate Titanium Magnetic Silver Edition enchants with its sturdy yet lightweight carbon composite case. Powering this edition is the in-house manufactured A-500 calibre that displays the small seconds at nine o’clock and the 30-minute totalizer at three o’clock. An open-worked cradle unites the case middle and lugs to enable a seamless design aesthetic, while the bezel features twelve indents/extroverted notches. It’s the mix of chamfered patterns with straight and curved lines that gives the Chronodate a sporty-chic feel. A titanium bracelet with vintage-inspired wide links completes the look.
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition
The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition is a limited-edition watch that builds on the brand’s Mirrored Force Resonance watch from 2016. Inspired by an 18th-century French clockmaker Antide Janvier’s Resonance Clock, Armin Strom’s Resonance watches use a patented clutch spring system to protect the resonance between its two balance wheels from external factors. The watch features symmetrical sky-blue sub-dials applied with grenage finish, dual engraved and mirror-polished day and night indicators to show the sun and moon to indicate AM/PM on both dials, and two crowns for independent adjustment of each dial. It can be paired with two contrasting alligator straps. Powered by Armin Strom’s new in-house manual-winding calibre ARF22 housed inside a polished 18-karat white gold case, the 39mm Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition offers up to 42 hours of power reserve.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold Blue Aventurine
It is said that the case of the Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold is produced from one block of red gold. As stated in the watch title, the case measures 38mm, and is 10.44mm thickness. Given the compact size, the A&S1612 calibre measures just 30mm, which makes it the smallest calibre contained within the brand’s roster of watches. The hand-wound movement continues the brand’s tradition of creating calibres with power reserves as reaching 90 hours. Further enhancing its look is the shimmering blue aventurine surface that covers the dial and the crescent-shaped celestial vault that records the phases of the moon. Cradling this dial is the red gold case and its other elements such as the bezel, four lugs and crown are polished.
Bianchet B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire Edition
The independent Swiss watchmaker Bianchet have unveiled a new version of their award-winning Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618: the B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire Edition. This reimagined model is crafted from sapphire crystal and natural vulcanised rubber. The tonneau-shaped case measures 43mm in width, 51mm in length, and 14.35mm in height. It features a titanium crown with a white rubber band for enhanced grip and offers water resistance of up to 50m. Inside, the manual-winding calibre is powered by a titanium flying tourbillon—mounted on ball bearings—at six o’clock. Resonating at a frequency of 21,600vph, the movement drives the hour and minute functions, along with the grande date display at 12 o’clock. The watch boasts an impressive energy reserve of 90 hours. Presented on a natural vulcanised white rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp, this skeletonised model is limited to just 21 pieces.
Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th anniversary
To commemorate their 140th anniversary this year, Breitling have scheduled a long list of new watches to be launched throughout 2024. One of this being the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar. The Breitling Navitimer became the first watch that allowed pilots to combine a chronograph with the brand’s proprietary wrist-worn circular slide rule. This anniversary edition then, features the famous slide rule in black, on a contrasting 18-karat red-gold dial. The watch comes to attached to a black alligator leather with contrast topstitching and an 18-karat gold folding buckle.
Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon
Bulgari are experts when it comes to chiming watches and the maison have done it again with the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon. This ‘horological jewel’ showcases Bulgari’s craftsmanship as it fuses the best of ‘Swiss watchmaking expertise and Italian aesthetics’. The clarity and richness of the notes that stem from this chime timer are made possible, thanks to two extremely complex mechanisms—visible as a dual ballet on the dial side—the tourbillon and the minute repeater with three hammers, rendering the time at will. The watch comes in a 44mm rose-gold case, which also enhances the tonality and sound of the timepiece. It is powered by the modified BVL428 calibre, which chimes the hours, quarters, and minutes, striking the quarters on three notes. It beats at a frequency of 21,600vph, keeping the watch running for at least 75 hours, thereby keeping the music on your wrist flowing without any interruptions. Water-resistant to 30m, the Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon is presented on a black alligator strap with satin-polished rose-gold folding buckle.
Corum Golden Bridge ‘Serpent’
Swiss watchmaker Corum have added a new member to their Golden Bridge Classic series: the Golden Bridge ‘Serpent’. Crafted from 5N 18-karat rose gold, this unique piece seamlessly combines visual art with mechanical prowess. The distinguished tonneau-shaped case, measuring 34mm x 51mm and offering a water resistance of up to 30m, is covered by a sapphire crystal that provides an unobstructed view of the intricate inner workings and stunning artistry. A hand-painted slithering reptile coils around the Golden Bridge movement, accompanied by surrounding leaves, creating a visually striking effect. The Golden Bridge CO 113 movement, composed of over 190 components, powers the hour and minute functions—displayed through the 5N gold-toned skeletonized baton-type hands set atop the bridge. When fully wound by the crown located at six o’clock—a distinct feature of the Golden Bridge—this manual movement beats at a frequency of 28,800vph, offering a power reserve of 40 hours. The watch is presented on a brown alligator leather strap with a triple-blade folding clasp, lending it a sophisticated look.
Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky
The Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky represents a bold new direction for the sporty-chic Antarctique line, introduced in 2020. This limited edition timepiece features an aventurine dial, bringing a “starry sky” sparkle to the collection. Available in both 40.5mm and 38.5mm case sizes, the Polar Sky caters to various wrist sizes without compromising on style. At its heart beats the in-house Calibre SXH5, featuring a distinctive seven-bridge architecture inspired by François Czapek’s 19th-century pocket watches. The movement boasts a variable inertia balance wheel and a recycled platinum micro-rotor. The Antarctique Polar Sky is limited to 99 pieces in the 40.5mm size and 77 pieces in the 38.5mm size. The aventurine dial contrasts beautifully with the polished surfaces and cool tones of the steel case, creating a harmonious blend of sporty and elegant elements.
Doxa Sub 300T Aristera Porfessional
For the first time since the brand was founded in 1889, Doxa have come out with a ‘left-handed’ version of their signature Sub 300T, which, like all their watches in their portfolio today, is a dive watch. What makes a watch a left-handed watch? It’s simply the position of the crown switched to the left side in order to have it against the hand, rather than pointing towards the forearm. Aristera is what they decided to call this one, as it means ‘left’ in Greek, which where the word doxa comes from, meaning ‘glory’. It came as no surprise that the brand decided to go with their ‘Professional’ colour variant for this one, as it is what they are known for, having been among the first watchmakers to use orange, which offers greatest visibility in darker or murkier waters. On the the Aristera, the unidirectional-rotating dive-timer bezel, for timing dives, including monitoring non-decompression dive times, features an aluminium insert. At 42.5mm by 44.5mm, the signature barrel-shaped steel case is water-resistant to a whopping 1,200m (more than a kilometre), and comes affixed to the brand’s beads-of-rice bracelet. One can get a back and orange Nato strap in addition to this bracelet as well. This lefty is limited to 300 pieces only, and we suspect there will eventually be more of these in the brand’s other colours.
Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival
Favre Leuba’s Deep Blue Revival stands out in the brand’s comeback lineup at Geneva Watch Days 2024. This 39mm diver faithfully reissues the iconic 1964 model, celebrating its 60th anniversary. The Revival retains the original’s vintage charm, featuring a sunray-finished grey dial and the distinctive round date window at 4:30. However, it’s not just a simple reproduction. Favre Leuba has enhanced the watch with modern upgrades, including an increased water resistance of 300 meters, up from the original 200. The Revival also incorporates a sapphire crystal and bezel insert, improving durability without compromising the classic aesthetic. Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, it offers a 68-hour power reserve. This model perfectly encapsulates Favre Leuba’s revival strategy: respecting its heritage while meeting contemporary standards of performance and reliability in luxury watchmaking.
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture
After celebrating their milestone 35th anniversary last year at Geneva Watch Days, Frederique Constant decided that every anniversary should be marked and celebrated, and the intention is now to come out with limited-run pieces that are numbered according to the anniversary. This year, there’s the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, limited to 36 pieces. Close to that figure is the case size, 39mm, in white gold. And housed within this case is a stunning aventurine, with the tourbillon cage visible at six o’clock. Also serving as the small seconds sub-dial, as tourbillons do, this feature is a part of the FC-980-4 automatic, in-house movement, which has been used in previous Classic Tourbillons as well, and offers a basic 38-hour power reserve. Featuring clean lines and a traditional onion-shaped crown, the classic case—water-resistant to 30m—comes affixed with a black alligator leather strap.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
Sheer transparency is key in the new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Bridges that was unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024. This watch is contemporary nod to the Tourbillon With Three Gold Bridges, which is the timepiece that the brand shot to fame with, in 1889, at the Paris Universal Exhibition, where it won a gold medal. Incidentally, this was also the edition of le exposition that saw the opening of the Eiffel Tower in the French capital. Presenting the ‘neo bridges’ versions of their signature bridges, the very clear case—with antireflective sapphire crystal for the ‘glass box’ glass and caseback, all held together within a 44mm, pink gold case—appear to be flying, given how they are set within the case. With golden edges on the grey bridges, they hold the main barrel, the timekeeping hands and the tourbillon cage—from top to bottom. Equipped with a white gold rotor, this automatic calibre GP09400-1273 can store a significant power reserve of 60 hours. Meanwhile, the gold case is flanked by a black rubber strap with a fabric texture.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit
H. Moser & Cie. make a statement at Geneva Watch Days 2024 with their latest Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit timepiece, released in collaboration with Studio Underd0g, a British watchmaking brand that believe that regardless of how serious the complication, a watch should never take itself too seriously. On that note, H. Moser chose their GPHG-winning perpetual calendar calibre with a minimal dial despite the information-heavy complication. The result is a spectacular expression in vibrant purple and yellow—hues inspired by the passion fruit. Multiple layers give the dial a three-dimensional depth and contrasting textures enhance the visual appeal of the two-toned watch face. The lower layer is in sun-brushed purple with a grand feu enamel dial in gold placed above. A large opening at three displays the date while a small seconds sub-dial with a snailed texture lies at six o’clock. The watch is powered by the brand’s manual-winding HMC 800 calibre, with a whopping power reserve of seven days, which is displayed via a power reserve indicator at nine on the dial. The exhibition caseback offers a view of the movement where a leap year indicator is prominently displayed. This limited edition timepiece was released along with Studio Underd0g’s 03Series Passi0n Fruit watch with a similar passion fruit inspiration.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone is packed inside a 40mm round, pebble-shaped case in stainless steel, which is paired with a dark brown calf leather strap. The case houses a steel ball-shaped crown and a sapphire caseback that offers a glimpse of the automatic movement. The lacquered dial shows coppery-rosy hues, where the centre has a vertical satin-brushed finish, while the railway track has a circular satin-brushed finish. This execution with shades like sand and earth gives off a neutral aesthetic to the watch face. A standout feature is the dial’s date window, which has subtle lines creating a gradual slope, making the dial even more visually interesting. The small seconds, recessed at six o’clock, is finely snailed and punctuated by slate grey markers and a baton hand. The automatic calendar movement LF270.01 powers the Classic Auto Sandstone, delivering a 72-hour power reserve.
Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph
The Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph is a trio of sporty chronograph watches, each issued in a 99-piece limited edition and numbered in multiples of three. One of these is the 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow that is distinguishable for its grey minute track with rainbow transfer. This setup offers a good contrast to the bevelled rhodium indexes applied with blue Super-LumiNova emission. The Chronograph Rainbow offers vintage charm, bold aesthetics, and the signature Louis Erard vertical time reading. Its tricompax dial is enclosed within the 44mm case made from Grade 5 titanium, topped with black ceramic bezel, and sealed with anti-reflective sapphire crystal. A sturdy, yet flexible black rubber strap completes the look.
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Titanium And Aikon Automatic Titanium Chronograph
In what seems to be their biggest ever update to their urban-inspired Aikon collection thus far, Maurice Lacroix present the Aikon Automatic Titanium and Aikon Automatic Titanium Chronograph timepieces in cases made from two grades of titanium. Round cases of both timepieces are crafted from titanium, a material that is becoming more popular in the watch industry because of its lightweight, hypoallergenic and anti-corrosive qualities. Offsetting the muted metallic sheen of titanium grade 2 used for the cases, the brand have used grade 5 titanium for the six arms on the bezels of the 42mm Aikon Automatic Titanium and 44mm Aikon Automatic Titanium chronograph timepieces. Dual toned finishes on the titanium case match those on five-link integrated titanium bracelets the watches are mounted on. Clous de Paris motifs on the dials of the Aikon Automatic Titanium are presented in two hues—purple for those who like to stand out, and a classic grey that best complements the monochromatic aesthetic of the titanium case and six-armed bezel. The Aikon Automatic Titanium Chronograph watches are decorated with a lattice-like motif in purple with contrasting silver counters, and golden with black sub-dials. Water resistant to 200m, these timepieces make for ergonomic, lightweight and functional timepieces. The automatic version is powered by the ML115 calibre while the ML112 movement sits within the chronographs.
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Blue
The Swiss independent watchmaker Nivada Grenchen have introduced the Depthmaster Blue, a contemporary take on their classic 1960s diver’s watch. This limited edition of 150 pieces features a textured midnight blue dial with Super-LumiNova-filled square and rectangular indices, plus a triangle marker at 12 o’clock. It includes a screw-down crown and a protective caseback to ensure water resistance. Unlike some previous Depthmaster models with stainless-steel bezels, this version sports a unidirectional, modern ceramic bezel with 120 clicks and a 30-minute scale. The watch’s 39mm cushion-shaped case is made from 316L stainless steel and offers a water resistance of up to 1,000m, making it ideal for both professional and avid divers. It also includes an automatic helium escape valve for saturation diving. Like the other Depthmaster models, it is powered by the automatic Soprod P024 movement (no-date version), with a frequency of 28,800vph and a minimum power reserve of 38 hours. It is exclusively available on a matching dark blue Tropic rubber strap, adding a modern touch to its classic design.
Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition
Hölstein-based Oris presented the Divers Sixty-Five LFP limited edition timepiece that speaks out in defence of childhood. As official timekeepers of French football league, Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), Oris teamed up with CNAPE—France’s national convention of child protection associations—to release the 1,000-piece limited edition watch for their charity football tournament. The watchmaking brand make a statement through the watch dial’s script in a font that resembles a child’s handwriting for the brand logo at 12, the water resistance rating and the words ‘Swiss Made’ at six o’clock. Additionally, the words ‘water resistant’ are displayed in rainbow hues against the deep blue dial to mirror CNAPE’s children’s football tournament titled ‘Les Défenseurs de l’Enfance’ or ‘defenders of childhood’, whose logo text is also rainbow-hued. This logo is also engraved on the closed steel caseback of the timepiece. Inside is the brand’s automatic calibre 733, with timekeeping and date functions, and a 41-hour power reserve. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP timepiece features a 38mm steel case and unidirectional steel bezel with numerals and markers relief, paired with a steel bracelet whose finishes match those on the case. A timepiece that tells an inspiring story, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP limited edition is one of the brand’s many ‘Change for the Better’ campaigns.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Ice Blue
Inspired by the Switzerland’s Grande Dixence which is the world’s highest gravity dam, . The combination of ice blue and black creates a bold design. As a Turbine watch, it has 12 black anodised aluminum blades that rotate with the slightest wrist movement, revealing the lower dial decoration. The dial features a ‘Californian style’ ice blue chapter ring with a mix of indexes, and Arabic and Roman numerals. Luminescent hands and a blue central seconds hand complete the look. The black leather strap with an alligator pattern has an ice blue stitching to match the shades appearing on the watch. Powered by Perrelet’s in-house P-331-MH automatic movement, the watch receives a 42-hour power reserve.
Ressence Type 3 BB2
Launched in 2013, the Type 3 is the first ever oil-filled mechanical watch, which doesn’t compromise on the legibility and was even awarded the ‘Horological Revelation’ Prize at that year’s edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And for this year’s edition of Geneva Watch Days, the independent watchmaker is showcasing the Type 3 BB2, which was also awarded the ‘Best of the Best’ distinction at the Red Dot Design Awards, earlier in June. The 44mm watch crafted in grade-5 titanium allows one to view the time from any angle, without any refraction or distortion, and appears smooth, thanks to the sapphire crystal found on both the front and the back. The crown-free design, further accentuates the wearability of this watch, making it a truly left- or right-handed timepiece. It features a reduced colour palette of primary colour tones highlighting the weekends and oil temperature indications on the dial. It is driven by the patented ROCS 3.5 module—an automatic movement fitted with 47 jewels and 44 gears, which uses the caseback winding for setting the day, date, and time functions, while beating at a frequency of 28,800vph to supply an energy reserve of at least 36 hours.
Singer Reimagined Divetrack
At Geneva Watch Days 2024, Singer Reimagined unveiled the Divetrack, a groundbreaking dive watch that redefines underwater timekeeping. This innovative timepiece features the unique Singer Central Automatic 24-hour Chronograph, offering unprecedented legibility and functionality for divers. The Divetrack’s multi-functional Central Sub-Counter divides dive time into distinct zones—CHILL, DIVE, and FLY—enhancing safety and monitoring. With a 300m water-resistant grade-5 titanium case, helium escape valve, and scratch-resistant ceramic aluminium bezel filled with Super-LumiNova, the watch is designed for durability and visibility in low-light conditions. Powered by the revolutionary AgenGraphe 24-hour Automatic Chronograph movement, the Divetrack also boasts a 72-hour power reserve and jumping indicators for easy reading. With its combination of cutting-edge technology, robust materials, and sleek design, the Singer Divetrack sets a new standard for dive watches, appealing to both professional divers and watch enthusiasts.
Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton
The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton is a departure from the brand’s existing Ripples collection. This Ripples watch has many firsts such as: it is the first to have almost stripped bare its whole dial, to use superior quality 904L steel in place of its usual 316L steel, to ensure a 30 percent reduction in case thickness from 9.20mm to 6.30mm, and to accommodate an ultra-slim in-house automatic calibre, measuring just 3.25mm! The Ripples Skeleton dial and calibre are enmeshed as one. That means the ‘dial’s surface’ is the self-winding in-house skeletonised SMA07 movement, reflecting the interconnectedness between its parts and their shapes, such as the semicircular integrated rotor, toothed ratchet wheel, balance wheel, network of triangular bridges, and more. The Ripples Skeleton comes attached to an integrated triple-link steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, and its folding clasp allows for adjustments according to wrist size of upto 4mm via a 2mm button.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Ombre And Lumière Editions
Trilobe’s Nuit Fantastique reimagines timekeeping with its innovative three-ring display system. Inverting traditional watch design, it features rotating rings for hours, minutes, and seconds, with fixed markers as reference points. Inspired by the Art Brut movement, the Ombre and Lumière editions showcase a striking black and white contrast, enhancing both aesthetics and legibility. At its core, the X-Centric calibre, a slim 5.78mm automatic movement with a micro-rotor, offers a 48-hour power reserve. Available in 40.5mm and 38.5mm titanium cases, the watch combines practicality with avant-garde design. The grained dial finish, sapphire crystal, and 50m of water resistance make it suitable for everyday wear. With its unique time display and artistic influences, the Nuit Fantastique stands as a testament to Trilobe’s mission of offering a fresh perspective on luxury watchmaking.
