FeatureA Case For The Unconventional Case: Why Round Cases Shouldn’t Be Your Only Go-To

What do you imagine when you think of a watch? For most of us, that would be a round timepiece, with a leather strap (or perhaps rubber or textile for our vegan friends), a white dial, black hands, the works. Well, statistically round watches are sold far more often than watches with other case shapes. So if you’re looking for a typical watch, one with a round case would serve you well. However, what happens when you’re looking for the atypical? What happens when you’re buying a watch as more than just a time-telling accessory? Well, in that case (see what I did there?), the case shape is quite important.

For those new to watch terminology or for the ones looking for a refresher, the watch case is the ‘skin’ of the watch that protects the movement ticking within. It also features the watch face, from where you view the time, and the caseback. Not only should the case be sturdy so as to protect the movement, but it is also important from an aesthetic perspective. While round cases are definitely the most common, I wouldn’t say that they always stand out, since brands—from luxury to affordable—have a dime a dozen watches with round cases. And it’s not just about grabbing attention. What’s interesting is that case shapes can also be a glimpse into one’s personality. For instance, if you choose an unconventional case shape, it might mean that you’re the kind of person who likes to take risks.

So if you’re in the market for a watch but are a bit bored of looking at regular, old, round watches, here are some other case shapes that might interest the unconventional horologist in you.

Cushion: Thinking Out Of The Box

Dressy, stylish and eye-catching, watches with a cushion-shaped case should be chosen by those who don’t like to veer too far into unfamiliar territory. These watches are square-ish with rounded sides and maybe softly-rounded corners, or as some people like to say, they are shaped like a ‘squircle’! The first watch to make use of this innovative shape was the Panerai Radiomir in 1936. Panerai has incorporated this interesting case shape time and again since then, and that has given the brand’s watches a chunky, masculine appeal that sits well with those looking for a bold timepiece that looks meaty on the wrist.

The Panerai Luminor Due 42 is a 42mm cushion-shaped watch whose design is inspired by the 1950 Luminor. Powering the watch is the highly reliable Calibre OP XXXIV

₹6,69,200

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Sitting snugly on the wrist, with a thickness of only 10.5mm, the watch features a bright, ivory dial, which stands out with its blue Arabic numerals

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In my opinion, cushion-shaped watches sit more comfortably on the wrist, thanks to their rounded edges. A variety of diver’s and dress watches have made amazing use of the cushion case, and that makes cushion-shaped watches quite versatile.

If a formal watch does not appeal to you and you’re looking for a sporty diver’s watch that is crafted with a cushion-shaped case, look no further than the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth, water resistant up to 200m and boasting a power reserve of 65 hours.

Oval: A Better Circle

Delicate, feminine and luxurious, the oval case shape is definitely one for the ladies. Perfectly wrapping around narrow wrists, oval case shapes look absolutely stunning and give one’s wrist a retro vibe that’s truly groovy.

One cannot talk about ladies’ watches that have an oval case shape without mentioning the iconic Bulgari Serpenti and its many avatars, such as the 35mm Tubogas Double Spiral. The watch coils around one’s wrist like a snake and its case is reminiscent of a serpent’s head, sporting brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The epitome of luxury, with its 18-karat rose gold case and bracelet, this oval watch is a contemporary classic.

Oval case shapes look best on delicate wrists. Kate Winslet is seen here sporting the Longines Symphonette, a symphony of stainless steel and 18-karat pink gold

₹4,16,000

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Exuding sophistication and poise, the Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Double Spiral has an oval-shaped case inspired by the litheness of a serpent

₹45,47,000

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The blue mother-of-pearl dial of this Frederique Constant Art Déco timepiece has a stunning guilloche decoration that is the epitome of opulence

₹1,51,500

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An interesting iteration in this category is the Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye timepiece, where the oval case has been flipped so that it appears like, well, a cat’s eye. It is definitely a reimagining of the oval case shape, and will grab the attention of onlookers like no other watch.

Bringing back that vintage glamour are the Frederique Constant Art Déco timepieces. First launched in 2017, the Art Déco watches were inspired by the aesthetic of the 1940s. The second iteration took inspiration from the roaring 20s instead. Blending vintage design with modern reliability, the Art Déco collection is a reflection of the modern woman—exuding elegance, boldness and femininity. The perfectly symmetrical, oval mother-of-pearl dial is extremely pleasing to the eye and the guilloche finish at its centre is a testament to superior craftsmanship.

Rectangular: Four Sides Are Better Than None

For some, there’s no better feeling than their watch perfectly lining up with the cuff of their sleeve. Yes, we’re looking at you perfectionists. A rectangular watch is the perfect horological addition for those who want to stand out, but do it subtly. Rectangular watches are meant for people who swear by minimalism and restraint. These watches exude effortless charm, and if you have the kind of personality that embodies the very same principles, a timepiece with a rectangular case would serve you well.

One of the most iconic rectangular watches in the market today (if not the most iconic) has to be the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, whose many iterations have taken the world by storm. And it’s one watch that has a particularly interesting history. It all began with British army officers engaging in the gruelling sport of polo while on horseback, brandishing mallets. There was a need for a durable watch that could endure these tough conditions. The idea was so simple: just flip the watch face over, and protect it with the caseback. And this is how the Reverso was born. You can read more about the watch’s history here.

A watch that was first introduced to cater to British officer stationed in India, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface is a rectangular watch meant for connoisseurs and history enthusiasts alike

₹18,10,000

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The second dial features a day-night indicator and, with its help, one can tell the time in a second time zone

₹18,10,000

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Another brand that has become the talk of the town thanks to its rectangular horological offerings is Tom Ford. Their 001 collection consists of watches that would be valued by those who admire symmetrical designs. The eponymous founder and designer of the brand swears by ‘tank-style watches’ himself. The brand’s watches look quietly luxurious and have a masculine essence.

Watches with a rectangle case shape sometimes also tend to look a tad futuristic. Many smartwatches (including the Apple Watch) come packaged in a rectangular case, which makes them incredibly wearable. A rectangular watch definitely worth mentioning here is the H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch. Dubbed as the ‘anti-Apple watch’, this timepiece sure looks like a smartwatch. With a steel case with soft, rounded corners that has been given a black DLC treatment, this purely mechanical timepiece has a classic dial in midnight-blue fumé. The brand had this to say about this interesting piece of horology, ‘The Swiss Alp Watch does not allow you to make calls, tweet or consult your diary. However, it continues to claim its place as an instrument for measuring time rather than consuming it. It redistributes priorities: taking time for oneself and one’s loved ones, with no filter, interface or embellishment.’ And that just proves that rectangular watches are for those who think outside the circle.

Square: For Admirers Of Symmetry

There’s a reason the idiom ‘be there or be square’ exists. If you don’t own a watch with a square case shape, you’re definitely missing out! Granted, we might be reading a tad too much into the idiom, but we’re not too far off the mark. Brands have, on and off, tried to square the circle, and have largely succeeded—the most well-known being Cartier’s Santos watches. Square timepieces make great dress watches and appeal to those who love clean lines, symmetry and balance.

The TAG Heuer Monaco, first launched in 1969, was the world's first square automatic chronograph. Its design has barely changed and continues to draw the attention of horologists and automobile enthusiasts alike

This balance is perfectly exemplified in the Nomos Tetra 27 Duo, whose minimalist and utilitarian air will appeal to the woman on the go. This particular timepiece is luxurious and restrained, and perfect for those with wrists of a more slender persuasion. The design of this watch is a melodious symphony of harmony, with its white, silver-plated dial, golden hands and perfectly proportioned sides.

The Nomos Tetra 27 Duo, seen here next to a Nomos with a round case, is a clear example of how the square-shaped case is more eye-catching than a regular round case

Tonneau: Barrelling Down The Road To Style

The French word ‘tonneau’ means barrel, and these watch cases are definitely reminiscent of those wooden containers that we’d often see in cartoons—rectangular with two rounded sides. The tonneau shape was quite common in dress watches crafted in the 60s and the 70s. So if you buy a watch today with a tonneau case shape, you’d definitely exude a bit of vintage appeal.

This case shape contours to the wrist and definitely looks the best on narrow and delicate wrists, making them irresistible dress watches, for ladies and gentlemen alike.

Parmigiani Fleurier has an edge when it comes to this case shape, as many of its beautiful offerings are crafted with a tonneau case. When the Kalpa line was created, Michel Parmigiani, the founder, said that his intention was to create a watch that would blend with your wrist. “I set out with the ambition to create a watch that was comfortable and ergonomic for all wrists, given how much their anatomy varies, as well as that of the wearers. I wanted to create a piece whose dimensions were as universal as possible. I was also keen that the watch should be felt comfortably when the opposite hand was placed on the wrist.” And with the Kalpa collection, which has beauties such as the Kalpa Kalparisma and Piccola for women or the Kalpagraphe Chronomètre for men, Parmigiani achieved the impossible—where the watch is designed so well that you don’t even feel it on your wrist.

Parmigiani Fleurier definitely has an edge when it comes to watches that use the tonneau case shape. The Kalpa Kalparisma Agenda Galaxy is a glittering homage to the night sky

₹30,80,000

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Seen here is the Kalpagraphe Chronomètre with a tonneau-shaped case—a dressy option for men

₹46,30,000

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Besides being delicate and charming, tonneau cases can also look avant-garde and futuristic, and the picture-perfect example of this is the Heritage Corum Lab 01. Its design aesthetic definitely breaks traditional watchmaking norms and has a space-age look that catches the eye.

Funky Case Shapes: Embracing The Extraordinary

Even when we talk about other ‘unconventional’ case shapes, we’ve really seen them all in the market. And let’s be honest—with mobile phones, there are few who actually use watches to keep track of time. Watches, instead, have become prized accessories—something for the wearer to be proud of and show off to the world; a little piece of their personality on their wrists.

For the true horological weirdos, those who like their fair share of attention, there’s nothing that catches the eye quite like unconventional case shapes. These timepieces do not fit the mould in any way, and that’s exactly how the brands want them to be. They disrupt the traditional watchmaking game and break barriers aesthetically.

Parmigiani Fleurier, best known for their classy, sophisticated timepieces, did just that with the Bugatti Type 370. In 2004, Parmigiani Fleurier signed a partnership with Bugatti, unveiling the Bugatti Type 370. Assembled along a horizontal axis, and in a tubular formation, similar to that of a car’s engine, the Bugatti Type 370 was a world first. The Type 370’s successor is the Type 390, which is inspired by the Bugatti Chiron. The PF390 movement ticking inside is composed of seven layers featuring a total of 302 components and is the most complex movement created by the brand. So this watch is not just unconventional when it comes to design, but mechanics as well.

Created in partnership with Bugatti, the Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 390 has a design aesthetic inspired by automobiles

The watch is assembled along a horizontal axis, and in a tubular formation, similar to that of a car's engine

The brand likens this timepiece to a court jester. 'It dares to do it all, defies limits and explores the field of possibilities without fearing conventions, or the guillotine.' And this timepiece definitely breaks the mould

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One cannot think of unconventional watch cases and not think of MB&F. The designs of some of their timepieces simply defy belief. What’s even more astonishing is that the movements powering the watches are perfectly tailored to each model! According to Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder, these watches are inspired by dreams from his childhood, and this astounding creativity can be seen in each and every offering of theirs. Through its designs, MB&F manages to reinterpret traditional watchmaking in a way that appeals to collectors that want to don something unconstrained on their wrists.

If you love pizzazz and are an ardent appreciator of disruptive designs and techniques, an atypical watch case is definitely the best bet for you. And honestly, your wrist could do with a little bit of crazy once in a while! So go ahead and let out that wild child in you.

Read more about unconventional watches here

These are but a few examples of how you can ensure that your watch is more than just an instrument to keep time or even an accessory to enhance the appeal of your wardrobe. Choosing an attention-grabbing case shape will liken your timepiece to an exquisite piece of art that only you own and covet. And with that, I rest my ‘case’.