Round-UpWant To Buy A Watch Between 1-3 lakhs? Here Are 10 things You Need To Know

I have earlier written a piece for The Watch Guide on how to buy watches priced at 5 lakhs and above. Today I try and give you some pointers which can help you buy a watch between 1 and 3 lakhs (roughly speaking $1500-$4500). This is the toughest segment to choose from, reason being, for the high-end luxury (5 lakhs and above) category you can choose from the best, and for entry luxury (less than 1 lakh) category you can’t be very demanding. This middle luxury category is where you need to be sure of what exactly your money can buy. Also, the choices are many, which makes your decision tougher. Here’s my list of ten things you should look out for.

1. Good Swiss or Japanese Movement

It’s very critical you pick up a timepiece with a good movement. And if you are buying a reasonably expensive piece (closer to 3 lakhs) you can even get a mechanical movement from a marquee brand like TAG Heuer, Longines or Breitling. A good Swiss quartz movement from ETA, Ronda, or a Japanese one from Seiko or Citizen could also be a good option. ETA is owned by the mighty Swatch Group and supplies movements to many famous brands both from within and outside the group. Miyota movements from Citizen are also very popular within brands outside the group.

2. Chronometer Certification

When you buy a watch you have no clue how accurate it is. Most likely you have seen a good ad of the timepiece and have gone for it. This is where the role of certification comes. Chronometer certification is a process where a watch movement is sent to the COSC and tested over a period of time (COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres – the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute that certifies the accuracy and precision of watches in Switzerland). In fact, even among the Swiss made watches, only a handful are COSC certified. The tests are conducted on a fully functional movement in different positions simulating day to day hand movements of the wearer. For a watch to be chronometer-certified, it must be accurate within -4 and +6 seconds per day on average between all positions. It simply means a movement cannot lose more than 4 seconds or gain more than 6 seconds a day.

3. Legacy of Brand Name

The most important criterion to buy a collectible piece is the brand name, even more than the particular product in discussion. These watches are for keeps and only a brand which has an established credibility over centuries, normally makes it to the consideration set. It’s not that no new brands have made inroads into this hallowed list but they are few and far between, Franck Muller and Hublot (though you won’t get them within this price bracket) being exceptions. Also if the brand has had uninterrupted existence and has proprietary movements along with in-house production of most small parts, the value attached is even higher. You will realise the power of the brand when you plan to re-sell your watch. Only a handful of brands are like currency, can be sold as pre-owned pieces at any point, fetching good ROI. Rolex is a brand that can be resold the fastest.

4. Unique Design

Go for something which is unique in design, not only for the brand but also within the entire watch industry. A reversible watch like Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre or a Cartier Tank with its famous railroad design has stood the test of time for almost a century. These designs are identifiable from a mile and never grow old. Some designs become so iconic that brands get known by them- Rolex Oyster, Movado Museum, Omega Speedmaster. There are many such examples.

5. Quality of Illumination, Water resistance

The quality of illumination is very important for checking time in the dark. Most expensive watches come with luminescence of some kind, but not all are effective. The poorer the quality of material the faultier is the illumination. Some can lighten up the hour markers and the hands only after being exposed to a source of light. But why do you need legibility when you are close to a light source, you need to see the time properly only when it is really dark. Hence go with a good quality and tested registered luminant like SuperLumiNova, which is used in many good models by most big watch brands.

Similarly, water resistance, particularly of sporty watches is a very important criterion for choice. While the standard is 30 metres, great diving watches can go down to 100 metres, 300 metres or even 600 metres. Though you may not be the one diving in deep sea with your watch on, a good sporty timepiece must come with good water resistance.

6. Sapphire Crystal

The part of a watch that is most likely to get struck or scratched is the watch crystal- the transparent cover protecting the dial of the watch. Hence, you should be extremely conscious of choosing a watch with a good crystal that can withstand reasonable knocks and are almost impossible to get scratched. And so, sapphire crystals have become an integral part of any good watch at this price point. The other type of crystals- the mineral glass ones are cheaper and get cracked easily.

7. Anti-Reflective Coating

As you need a good illuminating material to see in the dark, you also need good anti-reflective coating for seeing time properly under a bright glare in broad daylight. A good anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal can improve legibility hugely. Cheaper watches may avoid this step to save costs. The coating should be on both sides of the crystal for best results, but at least on the inside. There are challenges in applying coating on the crystals as it sometimes comes off due to scratching.

8. Solid Metal Construction

Often you find two steel watches with similar constructions don’t weigh the same. This is purely because watchmakers try and save costs by mixing inferior materials to the cases/ bracelets. Grade 316L is the quality of steel which should be used ideally for steel watches. Often watchmakers use inferior materials in the interiors of the case/ bracelet or even keep them hollow. Particularly for watches using bracelets, checking on the sides and weighing the watch itself could be a good idea.

9. Buckle and Clasps

Another important aspect which is often overlooked by buyers is the quality of clasps. It’s very important as you don’t want your watch to open up accidentally due to a hit on the bracelet or a mere jerk of your wrist. Cheaper watches with metal bracelets still have what is called a single locking clasp. This is the type of bracelet that snaps or clicks into place. The best metal bracelets have what are known as double or triple locking clasps. For a double locking clasp, the piece first locks via clicking down when it attaches to the bottom segment. The second is the little metal flap that locks again over the first piece to secure it being closed. For a triple lock sometimes there are also double locking clasps with a push button instead of a fold over clasp.

Also on aesthetics, a logo of the brand on the buckle or the clasp gives the user the pride of wearing a good watch with a personal touch. The Rolex ‘Crown’ on your clasp is as identifiable as it is on the dial or the crown.

10. Work on the dial/ case

Finally, the customer buys a watch based on how good the watch looks. Period. And much of its good looks are attributed to the dial and the work on the dial. Watchmakers go a long way to decorate the dials with hand-crafting and machine-crafting works. One of the most famous dial materials is the mother of pearl and working on MoP dials is a great art. They are easy to get damaged while working and hence the skill of the watchmaker is paramount. You also have Guilloche and Clous de Paris patterns which have their own followers. Many of these patterns used to be made by hands earlier, now having been replaced by easier methods like stamping.

Similarly, enamelling, marquetry (special work on wood, rare to get at this price), engraving methods, many of which are still done by hand, are highly sought after among discerning customers. The looks of cases and bracelets are also enhanced by special polishing techniques. You will often find brands alternate the polished and brushed look of their case/ bracelet to enhance the beauty of the product by giving a two-tone look.

To sum up, the ten points above cover varied interest points from looks to functionality, the legacy to its technology. I guess you can’t get all, so please prioritise your wants and go with what your heart says. Finally you have to live with your choice.

All watches displayed above is available at Ethos Watch Boutiques.

What do you look for before buying a watch? Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments section below!