Round-UpWatches And Wonders 2022: Perpetual Calendar Timepieces Mark A Strong Presence
Here are some outstanding timepieces flaunting the perpetual calendar function that simply make us want to ‘block that date’ in order to try them on at the earliest
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After nearly three years, the most-awaited event in the haute horlogerie universe—Watches and Wonders is currently underway in Geneva. While the pandemic ensured that the last two editions of the fair were held completely in a digital format; this year, with things looking up and the economies and international travel opening up, the fair is back to its home ground—the hallowed halls of Palexpo in Geneva. However, the organisers haven’t done away with the online sessions just yet, in order to factor in media representatives who haven’t been able to make it to the venue this year. As always, the buzz around new launches is palpable, whether it’s the run up to the fair or while one is witnessing them live (in our case digitally). As brands have been continuously unveiling their novelties, we have zeroed in on certain trends that stood out this year. Among them are some brands that have executed the perpetual calendar function with utmost ingenuity. A complex mechanism to assemble, not many brands have the expertise to come out with a perpetual calendar timepiece, primarily due to the technical know-how or the production costs involved. The challenge here is to account for the irregularities of the months and years because of an anomaly between the way we measure civil time and the celestial phenomena on which those measurements are based. Here’s a look at some of the highlights for this year
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I
Master of moon phase and astronomical timepieces, Arnold & Son have yet again outdone themselves. While most of their watches range between case dimensions of 38mm and 42 mm, with a unisex appeal; this is the first time that they are specifically focusing on the ladies. With its 38mm white-gold case, gem-setting and aesthetics, the Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I ushers in a new chapter for the brand when it comes to women’s timepieces. The opulent dial is composed of a fine layer of blue aventurine crystal, featuring lace-like cut-outs through which the large moon disc can be viewed. The starry sky is made of mother-of-pearl in a graduation of shades from blue to white, and the two lunar discs are depicted by ruthenium crystals. Between them, the constellations have been painted by hand. Available in a limited-edition of 18 timepieces, the Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I is driven by an entirely new manually-wound caibre A&S1612—which is also the smallest among its in-house movements, but ensures a generous power reserve of 90 hours.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar
Perpetual calendars are not new in the Jaeger-LeCoultre universe, so what makes this different? While one had mostly seen this complication associated with watches from the maison’s prominent Master line, this year Jaeger-LeCoultre have extended this to the Polaris collection as well—a first for this range. A perpetual calendar is a miniature mechanical computer that always shows the correct date, automatically adjusting for the different duration of months and even the leap years. It will not need any manual correction until 2100, unlike a normal date display, which needs to be adjusted at the end of every month that doesn’t have 31 days. Lacquered in a deep gradient-blue hue, the dial takes its aesthetic cues from the Polaris Mariner Memovox. The graduated blue suggests the transition from day to night—a subtle reminder of the connection between celestial phenomena and time measurement. The new Polaris Perpetual Calendar is driven by calibre 868AA—an improved version of the maison’s perpetual calendar movement that first appeared in 2013. It has been upgraded in sync with the latest production technology and significantly modified, to create a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases as well as an increase in power reserve to 70 hours.
Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo
One of the most dynamic brands, Panerai have always been at the helm of innovation and pioneering new technology in the watchmaking industry. And the new Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo reinforces that fact since creating a movement that is able to automatically adjust the day and date of each month while correcting for the leap years as well is the mark of true horological mastery. This 44mm timepiece in Panerai’s proprietary Godtech alloy is a limited-edition available in only 33 pieces, whose purchasers will be invited on a unique journey to Florence to experience Panerai heritage first-hand. A smoked sapphire crystal dial allows complete visibility of the day and date discs, providing an uninterrupted view of the interior architecture of the watch. Through the sapphire caseback the month, year, leap year and power reserve indicators are visible. It is driven by the automatic movement P.4100, which offers intuitive setting that requires no corrector or tools, permitting adjustments to the day, date, month and year by simply rotating the crown in either direction. Moreover, there are no limitations to the freedom to make adjustments, including during month-end periods and approaching midnight. The GMT function operates alongside the hour and minute hands, with the sub-dial at nine o’clock featuring the day-night indicator and small seconds. Here, the chronometric precision and regulation is ensured by energy stored in two barrels that keep the watch ticking for up to three days.
