Round-UpCharting Their Own Course: Young Watchmakers That Have Forged An Independent Path

In the world of fine watchmaking, brands are either owned by large conglomerates such as the Swatch Group, Richemont, LVMH, and Kering, or are family-owned independent watchmakers popularly known as ‘indies’. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, are some of the well-established Swiss independent brands that hardly need an introduction. With their iconic designs, technical prowess, and innovative spirit, they have become some of the most high net-value driven brands in the industry with a prestige clientele. According to the latest annual report published by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, the ‘Big Four’ luxury watch brands—Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille—secured an impressive combined 43.9% market share—solidifying the dominance of independent brands in the watch industry.

And, while the watch market is primarily dominated by these horological giants, it is also witnessing a surge in demand for timepieces by young independent watchmakers such as Norqain and Laurent Ferrier, who have something new to offer. “Norqain being a young, family-owned and independent Swiss challenger brand, we believe that staying true to our long-term vision without any short-term profit pressure from external shareholders empowers us to make bold, strategic decisions that differentiate us in the market and boost innovation across all facets of the brand,” said Ben Küffer, founder and CEO, Norqain, in a Deloitte report. From unconventional designs to exclusive in-house movements, young brands like these are slowly and steadily finding favour among watch aficionados and enthusiasts alike.

On the occasion of Independence Day, we explore some of these young privately-owned watch manufacturers, launched post 2000, which have complete autonomy in all aspects of watchmaking—including R&D, design, movement creation, and production—thus celebrating the true spirit of freedom. Read on…

MeisterSinger

Freedom To Create Striking Single-Hand Timekeepers

A Swiss brand with a German design ethos, MeisterSinger’s signature one-hand timekeepers help them stand out from the crowd. Founded by Manfred Brassler (also the brand designer) in 2001, MeisterSinger are an award-winning brand, based on the simple watchmaking of the 18^th century. Whether it’s their classic lines such as the N°01, the N°03, or the Pangaea, or their Perigraph or Unomat models, all of the timepieces follow a minimalistic approach. Their dials feature a needle-sharp single hand that is used to indicate time by dividing 12 hours into 144 markers, where each marker represents five minutes. Besides the single hand, another distinct characteristic is the presence of double digits—with a zero before the single digit numbers—to make the dial more even. While most of MeisterSinger products are run by the Swiss Sellita movements, the brand have also established a few of their own calibres: MSH01 and MSH02 (both hand-wound), and MSA01 (automatic), where the MSH01 movement is the winner of the 2017 German Design Award.

Both the MeisterSinger Perigraph models—43mm and 38mm—feature a bright yellow marker at 12 o’clock on the sunburst blue dial creating a mesmerising visual contrast

₹2,07,000

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These Unomat models are powered by the automatic calibre SW 400, with a power reserve of 38 hours

₹2,29,000

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Featured here is the Pangaea Day Date in a petrol green hue with the exposed discs in the centre

₹2,29,000

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Norqain

Freedom To Produce 100 Percent Mechanical Watches

A fairly young player with the reputation of offering exciting, robust, and sturdy tool watches, Norqain are a family-owned Swiss enterprise that only produce mechanical watches. Launched in 2018 by the founder and CEO, Ben Küffer, the brand practises freedom by manufacturing innovative watches, without the pressure of shareholder profits. At Norqain, each timepiece is assembled by the hands of their expert watchmakers at the production site in Tavannes. The models are designed in-house, thus ensuring uniqueness. The watches fall under three core collections—Independence, Freedom, and Adventure—and are crafted from high-quality materials such as stainless steel, 18-karat gold, ceramic, and bronze, with a water resistance of up to 100m. They also feature the ‘Norqain’ plate on the left side of the case—bestowing the brand with a distinct identity—which can be further engraved with a personalised message. In 2020, the brand joined hands with Kenissi, an expert movement manufacturer, to produce two COSC-certified calibres available exclusively at Norqain: the three-hand NN20/1 and the GMT NN20/2, featuring a 70-hour power reserve.

The Independence Skeleton 42 mm watch in a blue hue is made of stainless steel

₹3,66,600

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The Norqain Freedom 60 GMT 40mm Ice Blue features the GMT chapter ring, a date aperture, and white Super-LumiNova applied indexes

₹4,07,000

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Here is the Neverest GMT Glacier 41 mm from Norqain's Adventure collection with a date aperture at three o'clock

₹5,15,000

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Laurent Ferrier

Freedom To Choose Classical Watchmaking

At a time when brands are competing with each other to launch models with high-end complications displayed through busy dials, Swiss watchmakers like Laurent Ferrier stand out for their clean, classic, and characteristic design, reminiscent of the good ol’ days. In 2009, the third-generation watchmaker, Laurent Ferrier, joined hands with his friend, François Servanin, the founder and president at Laurent Ferrier, to launch a watch brand that is defined by refined classism and mechanical perfection. In 2010, the brand won the GPHG ‘Best Men’s Watch’ award for their Classic Tourbillon Double-Spiral watch, their first creation. Also, in 2015, they won the GPHG ‘Horological Award’ for their Square Micro-Rotor watch, run by the automatic calibre FBN229.01, with a power reserve of 72 hours. This automatic movement featuring a natural escapement system—originally introduced by the legendary horologist, Abraham-Louis Breguet–is a technological breakthrough in the world of modern horology. The original system is further developed by Ferrier using technological advances to maximise the restitution of energy; natural escapement is a better alternative to the Swiss lever escapement which is used in most mechanical watches today. The presentation of such high-end complications in such an understated manner is yet another feature that is unique to Laurent Ferrier.

To celebrate 12 years of watchmaking, Laurent Ferrier introduced the Grand Sport Tourbillon in a golden brown hue in 2022, reflecting the founders’ passion for motor racing

₹2,59,90,000

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Featured here is the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen with a small seconds hand at six o'clock

₹75,10,000

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The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto Blue features a date aperture at three o'clock and a small seconds display at six o'clock

₹55,50,000

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Gerald Charles

Freedom To Design Dressy Sport Watches

Founded in 2000, the independent, family-owned watch company, Gerald Charles, are the brainchild of the legendary watchmaker and artist, Gérald Charles Genta. Known for their innovative designs and high-end in-house movements, the brand have cemented their name among some of the most sought-after watchmakers. Whether it’s delivering dressy sport watches crafted from gold, stainless steel or light-weight titanium under their core collections, Maestro and Masterlink, or offering exceptional shock- or water-resistance up to 100m, or even creating specialised movements, such as the automatic GCA3002 powering GC Sport models, Gerald Charles are avant-garde in every sense of the word. Not to forget their signature design elements inspired by the maestro himself such as the case shape which is seen in their latest timepiece: the integrated-bracelet Masterlink. In 2003, Genta sold the company to his friend, Giampaolo Ziviani (former general manager), to focus entirely on designing watches as the chief designer of the brand until 2011, when he passed away. Today, the brand is headed by Federico Ziviani as the CEO of the company. Under his leadership, in 2022, the Maestro GC Sport was launched as an homage to the sport of tennis. Their Mastro GC Sport Squelette featuring a sand-blasted titanium case and a skeletonised movement, won the title of the most lightweight Gerald Charles watch, weighing approximately 50g.

Gerald Charles Maestro Shop the Collection

Ressence

Freedom To Present An Unconventional Watch Display

In a pool of independent watchmakers, a young brand that have created their distinct presence with the implementation of an unconventional watch display are Ressence. Established in 2010 by the industrial designer, Benoît Mintiens, the brand aims to disrupt the conventional method of showing time by doing away with all ‘unnecessary’ elements. As a result, their dials do not feature hands as seen in traditional timekeepers, but an animated display of two-dimensional rotating discs. One of their most important features is the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS)—a unique three-dimensional in-house module that employs rotating discs with graphical indications. Another feature is the presence of the eCrown mechanism–an electro-mechanical embedded system that replaces the traditional crown (usually found on the right-hand side of the case) and its functionality associated with a mechanical watch—another modern and disruptive addition. Operating on the principle of combining ‘simplicity with complexity’, the brand showcases these exceptional features through their six collections named: Type 1°, Type 1², Type 2, Type 3, Type 5, and Type 8. While all their watches are designed and engineered in Belgium, Switzerland is where the production and assembly happens.

Featured here is the Ressence Type 1 Round Multicolour with a white rubber strap

₹19,00,000

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The Type 5 L offers a water resistance of up to 100m

₹38,80,000

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The Type 3 Eucalyptus is powered by the automatic calibre ROCS 3.5, with a power reserve of 36 hours

₹42,90,000

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